The French have been very protective of the word "champagne."  The Treaty of 
Versailles contains the following:
 

Article 275 

Germany undertakes on condition that reciprocity is accorded in these matters 
to respect any law, or any administrative or judicial decision given in 
conformity with such law, in force in any Allied or Associated State and duly 
communicated to her by the proper authorities, defining or regulating the right 
to any regional appellation in respect of wine or spirits produced in the State 
to which the region belongs, or the conditions under which the use of any such 
appellation may be permitted; and the importation, exportation, manufacture, 
distribution, sale or offering for sale of products or articles bearing 
regional appellations inconsistent with such law or order shall be prohibited 
by the German Government and repressed by the measures prescribed in the 
preceding Article.
 
This has been interpreted to mean that ratifying power to the treaty could not 
allow winemakers to use the term "champagne."  Some winemakers (such as Spain) 
were not parties to the treaty.  I believe there also was a question of whether 
Australia itself ratified the treaty, or whether Britain ratified it on behalf 
of the British Empire.  The US did not ratify the treaty (the right result, 
though for the wrong reasons) so this clause did not apply to us.
 
The EU later clarified that the "champagne" designation only could apply to 
wine from Champagne.  
 
In teh US, many wineries used the term "champagne" as a generic term.  The 
French were not happy about that.  Today, basically this is no longer iused, 
for two reasons:
 
1.  US winemakers themselves stopped using the term themselves.  The US wine 
industry has matured and now produces wines that often are better than France.  
So there is no longer a need to try and enbvoke the mystery of French wine (and 
to the fact that many French champagne houses have moved into California).  
Also, with the maturity of the California industry, "Napa" and "California" 
have become generic names for certain styles of wines in India and China.  So 
American wine producers have a common cause with their French brethren.
 
2.  UNder US consumer protection law, you can no longer use the term 
"champagne" unless you used it before 2006.
 
So how does this tie back to Churchill?  On Election Night I was drinking 
champagne.  My wife asked why, considering that I was a rather strong McCain 
partisan.  I replied by paraphrasing Churchill -- "Champagne -- in defeat I 
need it".
 
  
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