Be warned - C&C used iron collars, at least in 1973. I replaced mine with a 
stainless collar and a backup in the cockpit where the rudder post pokes 
through for the tiller. The iron was at least 2/3s wasted away after about 38 
years.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Rick Brass
Sent: Monday, January 27, 2014 12:52 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder removal

Josh;

I understand from discussion and photos on the list that the later model C&Cs 
had bearings and bushings of one variety or the other, but the 70s vintage 
boats seem to have a simpler system as Danny in Lolita reported a couple of 
hours ago. His has a fiberglass tube that the rudder stock goes through, with a 
pin and thrust washers to hold the rudder up. My 38 has a fiberglass tube for 
the rudder stock, with a clamp around the stock at the top of the tube to keep 
the rudder from falling out. No bearings, but a grease fitting or grease cup to 
force grease into the small clearance between ID of tube and OD of rudder; 
there has been frequent discussion on the list over the years about changing 
out the grease cup in favor of a zerk fitting or long hose with zerk to 
facilitate greasing and what grease works best.

I'd suggest that Jason follow Gary's suggestion and post a picture of his 
arrangement. That way we can all see what he has and make our comments about 
his system. Having replaced my rudder, and helped with another one, I might 
have some tips for him.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC


From: CnC-List [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley
Sent: Monday, January 27, 2014 11:36 AM
To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder removal


About the bearings:  most of our boats have acetal bushings top and bottom in 
the fiberglass tube.  When the rudder is out you can grease it up and/or drill 
holes for grease fittings.  With the fittings you can lube it without removing 
the rudder.  After removing the steering quadrant there should just be a single 
bolt with rollers on both ends.  Pull that and the rudder will fall out.  I had 
to work with the boat yard to do it while on the lift.  You will probably find 
an acetal ring on the stock where it exits the rudder.  This is a spacer and 
thrust washer to prevent the rudder from thumping up and down.

If you find that your bushings are worn beyond your comfort, there is an epoxy 
product that you can inject between the stock/shaft and bearings to "rebuild" 
them.  I think West Marine sells it.  I say as long as you don't feel any 
lateral slop then you should be fine.  Grease it up annually and be done with 
it.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jan 26, 2014 8:30 PM, "Jason Shoemake" 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
I have a question for the vast knowledge found here. My recently acquired '78 
29 MK1 is on the hard with bottom, now clean as a baby's booty, ready for 
paint. There's a rust looking substance on and around the rudder. Where could 
this be coming from? Is it possible to remove the rudder and replace bearings, 
bushings and the like? Where can I find replacement parts? Any advice, or help 
- I can have an endless supply of beer - will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Jason Shoemake
1978 C&C 29 MK1
South Mississippi

Sent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
[email protected]

Reply via email to