Mark, if the hull has a good shine to it right now, then just clean/wax it. For 
those of us who had a fair amount of oxidation and were not ready to fork out a 
bunch of money for Awl-Grip or whatever, Poli-Glow is a good alternative. I 
waxed and/or compounded Penniless for a few years but when the wax was not 
lasting a season and the hull looked grubby by mid-summer, I went the Poli-Glow 
route. A bunch of work to get the oxidation off with Poli-Prep (not much 
different than a good compounding), but the results after the Glo application 
and the relative ease of the ongoing maintenance makes it worth while.

Gary
30-1
1980
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Dr. Mark Bodnar 
  To: [email protected] 
  Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2014 12:15 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Poli-Glow



  Seems this topic raises some divergent opinions.

  I'm pretty sure my CS 30 is just original gel coat - so I was planning on 
starting some type of hull upkeep.
  The polyglow positives sound really sweet - fast and easy is all good to me!  
Boat will be hauled every year, so easy to re-do yearly.

  Certainly don't have any interest in compounding the boat every year.  I'm 
more function than fashion - so as long as the hull is protected I'm not going 
to sweat to make it look pretty.

  On the other hand - Turtle Wax is not all that challenging either.

  From what I've seen back and forth so far it's unlikely I'll have a 
definitive answer - but I'm tempted to try to PolyGlow route.

  Mark

---------------------
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
---------------------

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George SantayanaOn 03/04/2014 12:59 AM, Rick Brass wrote:

    Poly-Glow is essentially acrylic floor wax. If you try to sand without 
stripping the Poly-Glow first, you end up with the sandpaper gummed up with the 
acrylic. 


    Nothing wrong wit the chemistry or with the gel coat. Just inexperienced 
"professionals".


    I've used Poly-Glow on my 25 since the mid 90s and never have stripped it 
with the exception of one spot repair where a dirty fender ground 
dirt/mildew/green junk off a piling into the surface during a nor'easter one 
winter. Poly-prep is dilute ammonium hydroxide. I used concentrated ammonium 
hydroxide (Purple Power from Walmart at $3 per gallon), rinsed, cleaned the 
section of hull, recoated wit Poly-Glow. Good as new in under a day.


    Annual polish is to wash the hull and rinse well with fresh water, and 
apply a couple of new coats of Poly-Glow, as someone has already said. Takes a 
couple of hours. Would be easier if the boat got hauled more often than once 
every 3 or 4 years.


    I wish my 38 had never been painted. A shiny hull would be so much easier.


    Rick Brass

    Sent from my iPad

    On Apr 2, 2014, at 14:04, Andy Blanchard <[email protected]> wrote:


      I don't believe in the quit fix like Poli-Glow, I was a believer at one 
time until I had to do some repairs on my boat after a collision. It was an 
insurance job so I was looking at having the repairs done by a professional. 
When they started to sand down the the damage area the sand- paper was gumming 
and they didn't understand why. I told them that I used Poli-Glow and they 
think that it could have been a chemical reaction that caused that or the 
original  gel coat never cure properly. No paint would aver stick on the boat 
in the condition it was in and it turn out the only next option was to re-gel 
coat the boat.     


       We have old Antique boats that oxidize with time and one day or another 
you will need to re-paint your boat.


      Andy


      C&C 25-1



--------------------------------------------------------------------------
      From: [email protected]
      Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2014 11:40:20 -0500
      To: [email protected]
      Subject: Re: Stus-List Poli-Glow


      Which why I chose to paint Touché with Awlcraft rather than Awlgrip. 
Awlcraft can be more easily repaired and blended than Awlgrip. Although it can 
be done, painters that can successfully blend Awlgrip are rare. 


      Dennis C.
      Touché 35-1 #83
      Mandeville, LA

      Sent from my iPhone

      On Apr 2, 2014, at 9:10 AM, David Knecht <[email protected]> wrote:


        What is the "it" that will deteriorate- the Awlgrip or the Poli-glow.  
Either way, I am not sure what to do this spring. I can either strip the 
Poli-glow and use Awlcare or keep using Poli-glow.  Added to this is the fact 
that the Awlgrip got badly scratched/scuffed by an unpadded dock last fall 
(long story).  It appears that with Awlgrip, there is nothing you can do except 
repaint and I am not ready to add that to my boat budget this year.  All of 
this makes me less than enthused by my first Awlgrip experience.  Dave 


        On Apr 2, 2014, at 10:00 AM, dwight <[email protected]> wrote:


          Because it will deteriorate in time and you will have to do it over.  
With Awlgrip all you really need to do is wash it down well and then if you 
want a little more do 1 coat of Awlcare, which is really easy to apply as 
well.should least 20+years at least barring scratches and dings 




----------------------------------------------------------------------

          From: CnC-List [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of 
David Knecht
          Sent: April 2, 2014 10:57 AM
          To: CnC CnC discussion list
          Subject: Re: Stus-List Poli-Glow



          Not realizing that my new boat had Awlgrip, I put Poli-glow on it 
last spring before launching.  It looked great (as usual) so I have no idea why 
it is "not recommended".  Dave





          David Knecht

          Aries

          1990 C&C 34+

          New London, CT


          <image001.jpg>



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        David Knecht, Ph.D.    
        Professor and Head of Core Microscopy Facility
        Department of Molecular and Cell Biology
        U-3125
        91 N. Eagleville Rd.
        University of Connecticut
        Storrs, CT 06269
        860-486-2200
        860-486-4331 (fax)












        David Knecht
        Aries
        1990 C&C 34+
        New London, CT

        <pastedGraphic.tiff> 


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