I agree. If your hull is in decent shape try to maintain it. You can read a really good write up on shining up your hull here: http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/52772-tips-compound-polish-wax.html
That guy's been working on boats and high end cars for a long, long time. I did what he recommends (as close as I could, anyway) last year and my top sides look great. The boot stripes on the other hand .... that's getting dealt with before launch this year. I think the folks that keep their boat in the water year round in the hotter (sunnier) climates have more oxidation to deal with than we do. Steve Suhana, C&C 32 Toronto On Thu, Apr 3, 2014 at 12:26 PM, Gary Nylander <[email protected]>wrote: > Mark, if the hull has a good shine to it right now, then just clean/wax > it. For those of us who had a fair amount of oxidation and were not ready > to fork out a bunch of money for Awl-Grip or whatever, Poli-Glow is a good > alternative. I waxed and/or compounded Penniless for a few years but when > the wax was not lasting a season and the hull looked grubby by > mid-summer, I went the Poli-Glow route. A bunch of work to get the > oxidation off with Poli-Prep (not much different than a good compounding), > but the results after the Glo application and the relative ease of the > ongoing maintenance makes it worth while. > > Gary > 30-1 > 1980 > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* Dr. Mark Bodnar <[email protected]> > *To:* [email protected] > *Sent:* Thursday, April 03, 2014 12:15 PM > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Poli-Glow > > > Seems this topic raises some divergent opinions. > > I'm pretty sure my CS 30 is just original gel coat - so I was planning on > starting some type of hull upkeep. > The polyglow positives sound really sweet - fast and easy is all good to > me! Boat will be hauled every year, so easy to re-do yearly. > > Certainly don't have any interest in compounding the boat every year. I'm > more function than fashion - so as long as the hull is protected I'm not > going to sweat to make it look pretty. > > On the other hand - Turtle Wax is not all that challenging either. > > From what I've seen back and forth so far it's unlikely I'll have a > definitive answer - but I'm tempted to try to PolyGlow route. > > Mark > > --------------------- > Dr. Mark Bodnar > B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C) > Bedford Chiropractic > --------------------- > > There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. > - George Santayana > > On 03/04/2014 12:59 AM, Rick Brass wrote: > > Poly-Glow is essentially acrylic floor wax. If you try to sand without > stripping the Poly-Glow first, you end up with the sandpaper gummed up with > the acrylic. > > Nothing wrong wit the chemistry or with the gel coat. Just inexperienced > "professionals". > > I've used Poly-Glow on my 25 since the mid 90s and never have stripped it > with the exception of one spot repair where a dirty fender ground > dirt/mildew/green junk off a piling into the surface during a nor'easter > one winter. Poly-prep is dilute ammonium hydroxide. I used concentrated > ammonium hydroxide (Purple Power from Walmart at $3 per gallon), rinsed, > cleaned the section of hull, recoated wit Poly-Glow. Good as new in under a > day. > > Annual polish is to wash the hull and rinse well with fresh water, and > apply a couple of new coats of Poly-Glow, as someone has already said. > Takes a couple of hours. Would be easier if the boat got hauled more often > than once every 3 or 4 years. > > I wish my 38 had never been painted. A shiny hull would be so much easier. > > Rick Brass > > Sent from my iPad > > On Apr 2, 2014, at 14:04, Andy Blanchard <[email protected]> wrote: > > I don't believe in the quit fix like Poli-Glow, I was a believer at one > time until I had to do some repairs on my boat after a collision. It was an > insurance job so I was looking at having the repairs done by a > professional. When they started to sand down the the damage area the sand- > paper was gumming and they didn't understand why. I told them that I used > Poli-Glow and they think that it could have been a chemical reaction that > caused that or the original gel coat never cure properly. No paint would > aver stick on the boat in the condition it was in and it turn out the only > next option was to re-gel coat the boat. > > We have old Antique boats that oxidize with time and one day or another > you will need to re-paint your boat. > > Andy > > C&C 25-1 > > ------------------------------ > From: [email protected] > Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2014 11:40:20 -0500 > To: [email protected] > Subject: Re: Stus-List Poli-Glow > > Which why I chose to paint Touché with Awlcraft rather than Awlgrip. > Awlcraft can be more easily repaired and blended than Awlgrip. Although it > can be done, painters that can successfully blend Awlgrip are rare. > > Dennis C. > Touché 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Apr 2, 2014, at 9:10 AM, David Knecht <[email protected]> wrote: > > What is the "it" that will deteriorate- the Awlgrip or the Poli-glow. > Either way, I am not sure what to do this spring. I can either strip the > Poli-glow and use Awlcare or keep using Poli-glow. Added to this is the > fact that the Awlgrip got badly scratched/scuffed by an unpadded dock last > fall (long story). It appears that with Awlgrip, there is nothing you can > do except repaint and I am not ready to add that to my boat budget this > year. All of this makes me less than enthused by my first Awlgrip > experience. Dave > > On Apr 2, 2014, at 10:00 AM, dwight <[email protected]> wrote: > > Because it will deteriorate in time and you will have to do it over. > With Awlgrip all you really need to do is wash it down well and then if you > want a little more do 1 coat of Awlcare, which is really easy to apply as > well...should least 20+years at least barring scratches and dings > > > ------------------------------ > > *From:* CnC-List > [mailto:[email protected]<[email protected]>] > *On Behalf Of *David Knecht > *Sent:* April 2, 2014 10:57 AM > *To:* CnC CnC discussion list > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Poli-Glow > > > > Not realizing that my new boat had Awlgrip, I put Poli-glow on it last > spring before launching. It looked great (as usual) so I have no idea why > it is "not recommended". Dave > > > > > > David Knecht > > Aries > > 1990 C&C 34+ > > New London, CT > > > <image001.jpg> > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > [email protected] > > > David Knecht, Ph.D. > Professor and Head of Core Microscopy Facility > Department of Molecular and Cell Biology > U-3125 > 91 N. Eagleville Rd. > University of Connecticut > Storrs, CT 06269 > 860-486-2200 > 860-486-4331 (fax) > > > > > > > > David Knecht > Aries > 1990 C&C 34+ > New London, CT > > <pastedGraphic.tiff> > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > [email protected] > > > _______________________________________________ This List is provided by > the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com [email protected] > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > [email protected] > > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo > Albumhttp://[email protected] > > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > [email protected] > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > [email protected] > >
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