Thanks to all - a small "wheel puller" plate with the right bolts let us
get the coupler off the shaft, much like several helpful suggesions. REALLY
GLAD I did this, pulled off the 34 yr old aging stiff packing gland hose
and found it just barely covered a small hole in the boat - unusually poor
fiberglass work around the stern tube plus (I'd guess) the edge of an old
clamp chipped through a small spot at the forward end of the stern tube -
hard to see, but a hole in the boat. Epoxy and glass work fixed it.
Reassembly delayed to let it cure, but whew....

Nate
"Sarah Jean"
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay, Lake Superior
with very little ice left floating around.......






On Fri, May 16, 2014 at 6:36 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List <
[email protected]> wrote:

>   I’m getting set up to do the same thing and from my investigations and
> discussions with local marine mechanics, I’ve determined:
>
> 1) The coupling would be a tolerance fit.
> 2) Cutting the old coupling off is the quickest method .... and you should
> do that at the keyway to minimize the potential for scoring the shaft
> itself. Otherwise a plate made-up with the same bolt pattern as the
> coupling and a rachet socket placed between the plate and the coupling +
> bolts through the plate and coupling can be used to press the coupling off.
> 3) Regardless of how you take it off, replace the coupling and take the
> shaft and new coupling it to a machinist to have a fit-and-face done on it
> and the shaft checked for straightness.
> 4) Might as well plan on doing the cutlass bearing at the same time.
>
> An old coupling would not have a tight fit on the shaft and the shaft
> torque would be taken up only by the shaft key .... shear that and the
> shaft backs out of the stuffing box and then you’d get to test out how good
> your bilge pump is.
>
> Peter Fell
> Sidney, BC
> C&C 27 MkIII
>
>
>  *From:* Dennis C. via CnC-List <[email protected]>
> *Sent:* Friday, May 16, 2014 2:01 PM
> *To:* Graham Collins <[email protected]> ; [email protected]
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List removing prop shaft coupling - how?
>
>  If all else fails, cut it in half and buy a new one. :)
>
> Dennis C.
> Touché 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 16, 2014, at 3:36 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List <
> [email protected]> wrote:
>
>  I used a 3 arm puller, PB blaster, a blowtorch, and the largest wrench I
> could fit on the puller, with a pipe on that as an extension.  I had a 12"
> adjustable wrench wedged in to keep the shaft from turning (the puller
> would have turned with it).  The adjustable wrench now has a very
> impressive bend to it, and it took a fair bit of heat and force to get
> off.  Hopefully yours isn't that difficult.  And as Mainsail says in his
> blog, easiest way is to cut it off...  if time is money, go that route.
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>
> On 2014-05-16 11:52 AM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I need to replace the stuffing box hose. Boat (30-1) is on the hard and I
> have the new Buck Algonquin hose, new packing, new clamps. Anyone have
> advice re removal of the forward prop shaft coupling? It is disconnected
> from the transmission and I've pulled the prop shaft aft, so there is some
> clearance between the couplings. The pbase website suggests that these
> couplings may be press fit (as in machine shop press).... PB blaster
> applied, light taps with mallet do nothing so far, considering heating it
> with a torch....?
>
> Nate
> "Sarah Jean"
> 1980 30-1
> Siskiwit Bay Marine
> Lake Superior
> (with floating ice chunks mid-May.....!)
>
>
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