We can assume you have no propane stove then? I once got a lecture from a Cabo Rico 38 owner about the dangers of gasoline engines. I noticed he had a propane stove and Clorox bottle full of gasoline for the dinghy stuffed in the engine room! YIKES!!!
Joe Della Barba Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 1:53 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift With all due respect, having watched a power boat blow up, that is and was the primary reason I always wanted diesel. Followed by better mileage, and longer life. And probably more dependable. Unless you have a newer fuel injected gas engine. On the down side, noisier, heavier, and more expensive. Bill Coleman C&C 39 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 12:18 PM To: Peter Fell; cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift Sounds like your motor is good and healthy. 85 across all four cold is a good number. I love my atomic four. I don't understand why a 30 year old diesel powered boat warrants a higher resale than a 30 year old A4 powered boat. The A4 is a whole lot smoother and quieter than it's 30 year old diesel counterpart. A 30 year old motor is a 30 year old motor is a 30 year old motor .. point being, they're all old and they will all need some TLC, diesel or gas. Steve Suhana, C&C 32 Toronto On Mon, Jul 7, 2014 at 11:50 AM, Peter Fell via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: You should have an oil pressure safety switch installed into the block (or is it oil pan .... can’t recall) just behind the fuel pump (assuming yours is not bulkhead mounted). Wired between the coil and the fuel pump (with an inline fuse – 5 amp I believe). The safety switch won’t send power to the fuel pump until the oil pressure rises to about 6 psi when the engine is cranked over. This ensures if your engine dies while running or you leave the ignition in on that you don’t continuously pump gas into the carb. Of course these switches fail (mine came to me bypassed, apparently by a ‘professional’ mechanic as the previous owner didn’t do any maintenance on the boat himself) so you should have some means handy to bypass the switch in case it dies at an inopportune time .... a wire with a couple alligator clips would work. I don’t have a key ... I have an ignition (pull-out knob) and a start button. My Ignition is my ‘stop’. I’ve also added low oil pressure, high temperature and zero coolant flow alarms, with a buzzer and warning light on the instrument panel. My gear shift is fairly easy to move. I have to hold the pedestal-mounted gear shift up to keep it in reverse. Neutral is very vague and forward has a definite ‘clunk’ to it. Getting the Atomic 4 tranny adjusted so that you actually get a ‘neutral’, without any slippage in forward was an issue with mine when the engine was rebuilt. I think it needs some more adjustment now. Using an oil that is rated for wet clutches (i.e. some motorcycle oil) is also recommended by many. Moyer is a fantastic resource and parts source. I picked up their split shaft coupling, oil dipstick extension, some water pump parts and the alternator tensioner recently. Peter Fell Sidney, BC Cygnet C&C 27 MkIII From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 7:55 AM To: bstrat...@falconnect.com<mailto:bstrat...@falconnect.com> ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift Hi, I have a Viking 33 with an Atomic 4. I can only comment from my experience with this one boat and Atomic 4 (well 2 as I replaced the original) Comments below in bold type <![if !supportLists]>1. <![endif]>Is there generally an “off” or kill switch other than the ignition key? I have read in other posts about an off switch that is used before turning off the ignition key Mine just uses the keyed ignition as a kill switch. <![if !supportLists]>2. <![endif]>This motor has an electric fuel pump upgrade and there is no documentation on it. Should I assume it will turn on with the ignition circuit or is there another switch I can’t seem to find? Mine is powered by the ignition and is wired to the coil. <![if !supportLists]>3. <![endif]> My previous experience with inboard boat transmissions (older power boats) is that they are easy to operate when the motor is not running. Mine is VERY difficult to move. The cable looks like it is not damaged. I will probably end up disconnecting it from the transmission to verify free operation but just curious about these reduction gearing systems. Mine is the same whether the engine is running or not. It kind of slips into reverse with no clunking into gear. Forward is far more noticeable. Reverse has a 2:1 ratio I believe and the forward it 1:1 direct drive New oil in both engine and reduction gearcase. New fuel. New fuel filters. New spark plugs. Compression check very good (~85lbs with very little variance). I have not started it yet but that is my next step. 85lbs is not bad. A perfect or freshly rebuilt typically runs over 100lbs I believe. Now before someone asks why these items were not dealt with during the survey or sea trial…. Those services would have cost almost as much as the boat. I paid very little for the boat and was willing to take the risk. I know the previous owner. He has been and still is at my marina. I have seen the boat in the water and underway. I am an optimist at heart. Head over to the moyer marine forums. You get loads of great info over there! I got the Moyer exchange engine for my boat a couple of years ago. Most people advised a diesel conversion but, I could not justify the cost and time consideration when the A4 pushes my boat along just fine and it wasd drop in replacement. There are still 20,000 of them out there running nicely and moyer makes it a far more viable engine and perfectly serviceable. Danny Lolita 1973 Viking 33 Westport Point, MA ________________________________ _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com<mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com<mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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