There is a great website that shows how to fix a lot of fiberglass problems. This guy is great source for the do it yourself person. www.Boatworkstoday.com. check it out.
Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 13, 2014, at 12:50 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > Joe, > > I haven't removed Touche's cap rails so I don't know if the mounting pad is > hollow or not. It may well be hollow. > > I would think about injecting spray foam into each hole. That will fill the > hollow. Then using a bent nail in a drill, hollow out the foam 1/2 to 3/4 > inch around each hole. That will create a nice void with a bottom into which > you can inject some thickened epoxy. Once set, the epoxy should form a nice > plug into which you can screw the fastener. > > My buddy up the bayou (Hull #61) replaced his cap rails years ago. His new > ones are a bit more square than the originals. Looks like he simply routed > the corners on a length of 1 x 2 teak. > > I've never liked finishing brightwork off the boat when it needs to be > re-attached and plugged. The area around the plug never seems to match once > you sand the plug down and finish it. > > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > >> On Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 12:20 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List >> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> I decided to attack some long deferred maintenance and removed the teak grab >> rail that is on the forward part of the cabin top, port side. It looks like >> water has been getting into the screw holes and my wife says 41 years of >> natural look teak is enough. So I figured I could take the teak off, sand >> and Cetol it off the boat, and seal up the screw holes. I got some Git-Rot >> thin epoxy to put down the holes, but it seems to just mainly vanish into >> the deck someplace. Does anyone know if the fiberglass part of the hand rail >> has anything inside of it or is it hollow? I assumed it had a wood core I >> could seal up with epoxy, but it looks like I am either wrong or the wood >> dissolved at some point in the last 4 decades. There is no chance of me >> ripping the headliner apart to access the underside of the deck. For the >> near term I sealed the holes up with Marine Tex to keep water out while I >> varnish the teak, but I am not sure how to put the rail back on. I could >> just drive the screws through the epoxy, but I don't think that is ideal, >> seeing how it is only a little bit in there plugging the hole. My idea right >> now is to drill bigger holes and drive something like a hardwood dowel in >> there along with epoxy to give the screws something to bite that won't have >> a way to leak. >> Another question - is there a source for those rails? I have found sometimes >> a new piece saves many hours of sanding and cleaning if it matches the old >> one. I am talking the flat wood forward. The looped handles aft are another >> project. >> >> Joe Della Barba >> Coquina >> C&C 35 MK I >> >> _______________________________________________ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of >> page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page > at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >
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