I don't know about your boat, but on mine, the original handrails had
machine screws embedded in them under plugs. They were snugged down by
nuts that were accessible through a series of holes in the headliner
that were normally covered by long trim panels. When I replaced the
handrails, I also changed to using lag bolts from below, to eliminate
the need for plugs in the rails. I also discovered that the original
installation had been done by eyeball, and the holes were not precisely
spaced. The lag bolts from below also solved that issue. Otherwise I
might have had to fill and re-drill quite a few holes.
Bill Bina
On 11/13/2014 2:08 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:
The foam idea is great. Never thought of the plug issue -- maybe sand
off the boat and finish when back on. As for the looped handrails aft
-- anyone know how they come off??
Thanks
*/Joe Della Barba/*
Coquina
*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of
*Dan Mccorison via CnC-List
*Sent:* Thursday, November 13, 2014 1:59 PM
*To:* Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I
There is a great website that shows how to fix a lot of fiberglass
problems. This guy is great source for the do it yourself person.
www.Boatworkstoday.com <http://www.Boatworkstoday.com>. check it out.
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 13, 2014, at 12:50 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Joe,
I haven't removed Touche's cap rails so I don't know if the
mounting pad is hollow or not. It may well be hollow.
I would think about injecting spray foam into each hole. That
will fill the hollow. Then using a bent nail in a drill, hollow
out the foam 1/2 to 3/4 inch around each hole. That will create a
nice void with a bottom into which you can inject some thickened
epoxy. Once set, the epoxy should form a nice plug into which you
can screw the fastener.
My buddy up the bayou (Hull #61) replaced his cap rails years ago.
His new ones are a bit more square than the originals. Looks like
he simply routed the corners on a length of 1 x 2 teak.
I've never liked finishing brightwork off the boat when it needs
to be re-attached and plugged. The area around the plug never
seems to match once you sand the plug down and finish it.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 12:20 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I decided to attack some long deferred maintenance and removed
the teak grab rail that is on the forward part of the cabin
top, port side. It looks like water has been getting into the
screw holes and my wife says 41 years of natural look teak is
enough. So I figured I could take the teak off, sand and Cetol
it off the boat, and seal up the screw holes. I got some
Git-Rot thin epoxy to put down the holes, but it seems to just
mainly vanish into the deck someplace. Does anyone know if the
fiberglass part of the hand rail has anything inside of it or
is it hollow? I assumed it had a wood core I could seal up
with epoxy, but it looks like I am either wrong or the wood
dissolved at some point in the last 4 decades. There is no
chance of me ripping the headliner apart to access the
underside of the deck. For the near term I sealed the holes up
with Marine Tex to keep water out while I varnish the teak,
but I am not sure how to put the rail back on. I could just
drive the screws through the epoxy, but I don't think that is
ideal, seeing how it is only a little bit in there plugging
the hole. My idea right now is to drill bigger holes and drive
something like a hardwood dowel in there along with epoxy to
give the screws something to bite that won't have a way to leak.
Another question - is there a source for those rails? I have
found sometimes a new piece saves many hours of sanding and
cleaning if it matches the old one. I am talking the flat wood
forward. The looped handles aft are another project.
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
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