We have original rod rigging after 33 years. Boat has been half in fresh water and half in salt. Raced a lot and cruised as well. Inspect every year with mast down, lightly grease turnbuckle threads so no galling, Everything seems fine.
John and Maryann Legacy III 1982 C&C 34 Noank, CT From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2015 9:32 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: robert Subject: Stus-List Navtec Rod Rigging Joel, don't know where you got the notion that Navtec rod rigging must be re-headed every 10 years or 10,000 miles.....below is info taken from a Navtec site...... "As a general rule, Navtec uses a figure of 40,000 sailing miles as a time when a thorough inspection should be done. This would include inspection of all the rod heads and end fittings. If any of the heads are cracked or worn, the rod should at least be reheaded One item that Navtec does recommend replacing after 10 years of use or 40,000 miles (whichever comes first) is the turnbuckle screws." Rob Abbott AZURA C&C 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2015-06-15 1:22 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote: FWIW, Navtec recommends re-heading every 10 years or 10,000 miles. Joel 35/3 The Office On Mon, Jun 15, 2015 at 12:15 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Rod Rigging. Mine is also original and the boat has been freshwater for all its life except for 4 years. I discussed the rig with one of the few (And be most accounts: the best) factory certified Navtec guys in the southeast (Rick Zern) and his advice was: Have your local guy take a look at it (While it's down if possible) or you can look at it yourself. Here's what you look for: No kinks, make sure the tangs (mast attachment ball / socket joints) are not deformed, can rotate smoothly, and are free of rust. Same with the eyes / toggles / turnbuckles: free of rust, smooth turning. If that passes muster, don't worry about it. As you know, rod riggings are extremely stout and don't really stretch much at all. If it has been abused, mistreated, or over-stressed in a storm, the aluminum mast structure around the tang area will deform, same for the threads on the turnbuckles: They will get distorted long before the rods or heads get damaged. Rick told me that being a certfied Navtec rigger he decided to remove his and have it lab tested. Keep in mind his boat (J-boat) had been raced hard in salt water for 15-20+ years / his rod rigging was original. Results after the dye and destructive tests done: Nothing wrong. In his words: It was a waste of money and efforts. His words (Again) if you're about to embark on extended ocean crossing passages then by all means spend the money to get work done as insurance. For the rest of us lake and coastal cruisers: Keep sailing and taking reasonable care of your rig. Regards, -Francois 1990 34+ "Take Five" Lake Lanier, GA From: davepulaski <mailto:davepula...@hotmail.com> <davepula...@hotmail.com> To: Jean-Francois J Rivard/Atlanta/IBM@IBMUS, cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: 06/15/2015 11:26 AM Subject: RE: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls _____ Thanks for all the info François! Yes I've come to accept that those stern thru-hulls are in fact above DWL, regardless of what the painted waterline says. I'm leaning towards not going to seacocks now, probably will at least replace the old thru-hull though with a new marelon one while I'm in there. Thanks for the tip on jacking up the fuel tank! You're correct - the 2 small lines are for draining the propane tank compartment under the quadrant panel. I like that the cockpit doesn't need scuppers! While I have you - what are your thoughts on the rod rigging on these boats? AFAIK, she has all her original standing rigging. Yes she's been only in fresh water so far, but the age still gives me pause. Have you rerigged yet? Dave 1990 34+ "Faith Anne" Sent from my T-Mobile Galaxy Note 2 -------- Original message -------- From: Jean-Francois J Rivard <jfriv...@us.ibm.com> Date: 06/15/2015 10:45 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: davepula...@hotmail.com Subject: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls Hi David, Congrats on getting the 34+. I've owned mine for 3 years and still think I could not have possibly gotten a better boat for what we do. The promise is that is gives you plentiful room and comfort at the marina / anchor and runs like a bat out of he$$ around the cans.. It does just that. All your questions are really straightforward. Exhaust hose: I replaced mine last year, it's not that bad. Your idea of connecting the old one to the new one is excellent. I just wrestled my old one out and taped a fiberglass wiring rod to the new one to pull some / guide it. The trick is to remove all the aft stateroom cushions then remove the fuel tank access panel and the wooden blocks that are screwed / wedged-in securing the fuel tank and find a way to jack-up tank to facilitate threading the new hose in under it ( I used 2 x 2's) . The challenge to thread the new hose is to line it up between the exposed strut bolts. Stick to the original hose construction / diameter and you'll be fine. It's a bit of a sweaty wrestling match but you and 1 other guy should be able to knock it out in less than 1 hour. "Through-Hulls" None of what you mentioned is below the waterline at rest. They get dipped-in some when motoring or sailing in excess of 5 or so knots but that's nothing that the standard siphon loops can't handle. The 34+ is the last of the Canadian C&C's and after 35 + odd years of designing racer cruisers they had it down.. Rob Ball knew what he was doing. FYI, all through hulls on mine are Marelon. I close them all everytime I leave the boat and they works well, Also, there are no cockpit or deck scuppers on the boat. All cockpit /deck water simply flows out the stern / swim platform area in a modern open stern / sport boat style. On my boat there's a drain for the propane locker, also well designed. No need to seal / mess with it as propane is heavier than air and flows down the drain like water with its exit above the waterline at rest There's no quadrant well. On my boat The rudder shaft goes up to the quadrant that is mounted on top and flush with the cockpit sub-floor. All that is easily accessible by simply removing the triangular fiberglass cover. Feel free to PM me for more details on how to tune the boat / other questions of you want. -Francois Rivard 1990 34+ "Take Five" Lake Lanier, GA Subject: Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls Message-ID: <mailto:snt152-w7315fc52d9f459dde543fda0...@phx.gbl> <snt152-w7315fc52d9f459dde543fda0...@phx.gbl> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I said "appear" to be below the waterline because the boat's not in the water, isn't going in the water anytime soon, and I've never actually seen one of these in the water :) All four thru-hulls are under the transom counter and below the boot stripe as well as below the waterline as defined by the existing bottom paint, so I have to assume they are submerged with the boat floating level. Given their location in the bowels of the stern lazarettes, I know accessing them is a pain but I'm paranoid enough that I'd close them when I'm leaving the boat on her mooring and not returning for a span of days at a time. On second though, I'd have to leave the two small ones open because those are scuppers, so no sense in valves on them at all. Here's a pic of the two port side thru hulls, big one is the exhaust. 2 more on the stbd side in the same configuration. So I'm the proud new owner of a '90 34+, and the first project I bit off was replacement of the exhaust hose from the muffer back, including the thru-hull. First off, this is not going to be fun because the hose runs under the fuel tank and span of the cockpit under the water heater where it is completely inaccessible. I'm hoping I'll be able to pull the new hose through by clamping it to the old hose with a double-ended barb, but it seems like it's an awful tight fit under the tank. If anyone else has done this job and has any suggestions, I'm all ears. Second, the thru-hulls themselves. There are 4 thru-hulls just under the transom - the exhaust, the two drains for the propane tank & steering quadrant well, and the bilge pump. All 4 are plastic mushroom-head thru-hulls, and I want to replace at least the exhaust thru-hull with a new marelon one. Question: none of these thru-hulls have seacocks on them, which seems odd (and unwise) to me because they appear to be below the waterline. What are your thoughts on putting a marelon ball valve on the new thru hull while I'm at it? I'm tempted to replace all 4 of them with new thru-hull and valves. Am I just being paranoid? Thanks all. I'm thrilled to have this boat and I'm sure I'll be pestering the heck out of this board! -Dave 1990 C&C 34+ "Faith Anne" _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus
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