Hi Dwight, I do have the M4-30 and it when it ran hotter than normal, I clean the little tubes with 1/8" wooden rods I buy from an art supply or hardware store. I run my engine at 190 degrees. I thottle back if the temperature gets above that.
To clean: With the engine off and the seacock shut, I remove both ends of the exchanger and simply push the wooden dowels through a few times. There are about 30 to 40 tubes, but it's pretty easy. A diesel mechanic recommended I remove the exchanger and have it acid cleaned to remove any scale from the fresh water side. I haven't done that. I heard of a product you use without disassembly, and then you flush it and replace your water and antifreeze mix. I'll try and find that. Chuck ----- Original Message ----- From: "dwight veinot via CnC-List" <[email protected]> To: [email protected] Cc: "dwight" <[email protected]> Sent: Sunday, August 9, 2015 8:20:01 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine EV-100 and backbone wiring Hi Chuck I recall reading in one of your C&C posts that you have an M4-30 and that you dismantled and cleaned the heat exchanger. Is that correct and if so what did you find inside? I mean how it’s built and was anything clogging it? Also did you ever do any cleaning/maintenance where the salt water from the heat exchanger enters the exhuast gas line? My M4-30 runs great at 1600 rpm but when I run it at higher rpm’s it runs hotter than I think it should, like at 2500 rpm the temp gage climbs to boiling and sometimes 220 F but the engine is still smooth and strong, just hotter than I would like to see. I would like to see more water exiting the boat and I know my raw water pump is good since I have installed a new impeller with no noticeable change in performance and I know the raw water feed to that pump is not blocked, lots of flow into the bilge when I disconnect it from the pump. Can yo give me any advice from your experience. Thanks dwight Dwight Veinot C&C 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS [email protected]
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