It sounds like a rifle bore cleaning brush would work better... Bob
Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer > On Aug 9, 2015, at 11:18 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List <[email protected]> > wrote: > > Hi Dwight, > I chose wood so I wouldn't scratch the copper tubes. A pipe cleaner would be > better, but I couldn't find long ones. The exchanger is 13 to 15 inches > long. Long pipe cleaners are available on the web. When you remove the end > caps, only a quart of seawater falls into the bilge. There is a pencil zinc > inside the port end of the exchanger and I change that every year. I think > 9/16" wrench fits the cap bolt as well as the zinc? I found a Youtube video > showing how to rod out the tubes using a flexible SS 1 x 19 wire and a drill. > I may try that method someday? > https://search.yahoo.com/search?p=youtube+marine+heat+exchanger&ei=UTF-8&fr=chr-greentree_ff&ilc=12&type=800236 > > Found this product that looks like a good way to clean the inner, fresh water > side of the tubes and inner shell and inside of the engine. The videos show > amazing results and it's biodegradable and doesn't burn your skin. > http://www.rydlymemarine.com/ > > BTW, I bought about dozen of the 1/8" wooden dowels from an art supply store. > I broke them in half to store inside my tupperware container for engine > spare parts. I break a couple each during annual cleaning and throw them > away after use. I don't get the copper tubes shiny clean. I open > obstructions and get most of the scale out. The dowels have worked well to > keep us going, but I am looking to order Pipe cleaners, and follow up with > those next year. > > > Chuck > Resolute > 1990 C&C 34R > Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md > > From: "dwight veinot via CnC-List" <[email protected]> > To: [email protected] > Cc: "dwight" <[email protected]> > Sent: Sunday, August 9, 2015 10:17:23 AM > Subject: Re: Stus-List cleaning heat exchanger > > Thanks chuck; I am guessing that is my problem and I have never cleaned that > heat exchanger in my 10 years with Alianna. > How much F/W coolant will be let loose? > How much salt water will be let loose? > You make the job seem easy; approximately how long are the tubes? > Why did you choose a wood dowel versus wire? > > Dwight Veinot > C&C 35 MKII, Alianna > Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS > [email protected] > > >> On Sun, Aug 9, 2015 at 10:35 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List >> <[email protected]> wrote: >> Hi Dwight, >> I do have the M4-30 and it when it ran hotter than normal, I clean the >> little tubes with 1/8" wooden rods I buy from an art supply or hardware >> store. I run my engine at 190 degrees. I thottle back if the temperature >> gets above that. >> >> To clean: >> With the engine off and the seacock shut, I remove both ends of the >> exchanger and simply push the wooden dowels through a few times. There are >> about 30 to 40 tubes, but it's pretty easy. A diesel mechanic recommended I >> remove the exchanger and have it acid cleaned to remove any scale from the >> fresh water side. I haven't done that. I heard of a product you use >> without disassembly, and then you flush it and replace your water and >> antifreeze mix. I'll try and find that. >> >> Chuck >> >> >> From: "dwight veinot via CnC-List" <[email protected]> >> To: [email protected] >> Cc: "dwight" <[email protected]> >> Sent: Sunday, August 9, 2015 8:20:01 AM >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine EV-100 and backbone wiring >> >> Hi Chuck >> >> >> >> I recall reading in one of your C&C posts that you have an M4-30 and that >> you dismantled and cleaned the heat exchanger. Is that correct and if so >> what did you find inside? I mean how it’s built and was anything clogging >> it? Also did you ever do any cleaning/maintenance where the salt water from >> the heat exchanger enters the exhuast gas line? My M4-30 runs great at 1600 >> rpm but when I run it at higher rpm’s it runs hotter than I think it should, >> like at 2500 rpm the temp gage climbs to boiling and sometimes 220 F but the >> engine is still smooth and strong, just hotter than I would like to see. I >> would like to see more water exiting the boat and I know my raw water pump >> is good since I have installed a new impeller with no noticeable change in >> performance and I know the raw water feed to that pump is not blocked, lots >> of flow into the bilge when I disconnect it from the pump. Can yo give me >> any advice from your experience. >> >> >> >> Thanks >> >> dwight >> >> >> Dwight Veinot >> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna >> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS >> [email protected] >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Email address: >> [email protected] >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom >> of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > [email protected] > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > [email protected] > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >
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