Rick, how did replacing the pressure cap on the fresh water side solve your problem. I have never checked the thermostat but the hose clamps do not appear to be leaking...there is an overflow drain right below the pressure cap.
Dwight Veinot C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna* Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS [email protected] On Sun, Aug 9, 2015 at 12:30 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List < [email protected]> wrote: > Dwight, > > > > I have an M35B (which is a newer engine but appears similar to the M4-30) > in Imzadi, and my process for cleaning the heat exchanger is slightly > different than Chuck’s but accomplishes the same thing. > > > > My heat exchanger is athwart the aft end of the engine. Access to the heat > exchanger is only practical through the cockpit locker on the starboard > side. Both cleaning the exchanger and changing the pencil zinc are done > from down in that locker. The end cap of the exchanger on the port side of > the boat is almost impossible without major surgery because of the quarter > berth. > > > > Shut off the raw water seacock. Remove the end cap and seal to open up the > chamber that includes the zinc and access to the cooling tubes for the raw > water. As with Chuck’s exchanger there are something like 30 tubes that run > through the body of the exchanger that holds the fresh water. You will lose > a gallon or two of raw water into the bilge, but you are not opening up the > fresh water side of the system at all. > > > > I use a rod and stiff wire brush, that I bought at the local sporting > goods store for about $20US, that is made for cleaning the barrel of a .22 > caliber rifle. The brush will clean the scale from inside the tubes very > well. I have also pushed a couple of chunks of corroded zinc out of the > tubes when I went more than a year without changing the pencil zinc and the > zinc was really used up. Push the rod and brush through each tube and then > pull it back out. Reassemble the end cap, turn on the seacock, and you are > good to go. > > > > The hardest part is cleaning and repacking the locker and climbing in an > out. I personally think every boat should come with its own midget, or with > a precocious 12 year old that has a mechanical engineering degree. > > > > My boat normally runs about 165-170 degrees, and will get to 185 or so if > I push it at hull speed for a while. Two years ago I had experience with it > climbing above 200 (which is why I got the tool for cleaning the heat > exchanger) but the final solution to the problem was replacing the pressure > cap on the fresh water side of the engine. Be sure to check out the cap, > thermostat, and hose clamps on the fresh water side if you have not done > so already. > > > > At the recommendation of my friend, who is a diesel mechanic and helped > with my repower 5 years ago, I change the zinc yearly and clean the > exchanger every two or three years. He recommended doing it every other > year if sailing in salt water to avoid salt buildup. He indicated there is > really no need to clean the fresh water side of the heat exchanger if you > keep proper coolant in the engine. > > > > Because there have been so many stories on the list about plugged exhaust > elbows on Yanmar engines, I asked about the need for cleaning the exhaust > riser on my Universal. He said the Universal/Westerbeke/Beta engines are > quite different than the elbows on the Yanmars, and very seldom have > problems. On the Yanmar 2GMF in his J/30, OTOH, removing the elbow and > cleaning it out is part of annual maintenance. > > > > Rick Brass > > Washington, NC > > > > > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:[email protected]] *On Behalf Of *Chuck > S via CnC-List > *Sent:* Sunday, August 09, 2015 9:35 AM > *To:* CNC boat owners, cnc-list <[email protected]> > *Cc:* Chuck S <[email protected]> > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List cleaning heat exchanger > > > > Hi Dwight, > > I do have the M4-30 and it when it ran hotter than normal, I clean the > little tubes with 1/8" wooden rods I buy from an art supply or hardware > store. I run my engine at 190 degrees. I thottle back if the temperature > gets above that. > > > > To clean: > > With the engine off and the seacock shut, I remove both ends of the > exchanger and simply push the wooden dowels through a few times. There are > about 30 to 40 tubes, but it's pretty easy. A diesel mechanic recommended > I remove the exchanger and have it acid cleaned to remove any scale from > the fresh water side. I haven't done that. I heard of a product you use > without disassembly, and then you flush it and replace your water and > antifreeze mix. I'll try and find that. > > > > Chuck > > > > > ------------------------------ > > *From: *"dwight veinot via CnC-List" <[email protected]> > *To: *[email protected] > *Cc: *"dwight" <[email protected]> > *Sent: *Sunday, August 9, 2015 8:20:01 AM > *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Raymarine EV-100 and backbone wiring > > > > Hi Chuck > > > > I recall reading in one of your C&C posts that you have an M4-30 and that > you dismantled and cleaned the heat exchanger. Is that correct and if so > what did you find inside? I mean how it’s built and was anything clogging > it? Also did you ever do any cleaning/maintenance where the salt water > from the heat exchanger enters the exhuast gas line? My M4-30 runs great > at 1600 rpm but when I run it at higher rpm’s it runs hotter than I think > it should, like at 2500 rpm the temp gage climbs to boiling and sometimes > 220 F but the engine is still smooth and strong, just hotter than I would > like to see. I would like to see more water exiting the boat and I know my > raw water pump is good since I have installed a new impeller with no > noticeable change in performance and I know the raw water feed to that pump > is not blocked, lots of flow into the bilge when I disconnect it from the > pump. Can yo give me any advice from your experience. > > > > Thanks > > dwight > > > Dwight Veinot > > C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna* > > Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS > > [email protected] > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > [email protected] > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > >
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