@Dave, I think you're probably right. Water could have gotten onto the battery ledge from condensation or past engine leaks (the exhaust run was replaced a few years ago, maybe the reason was that it was leaking). A cup or so of standing water would just sit there until the next time the boat was sailed on a port tack or motored in waves enough to induce roll. I think I should also drill some limber holes at the back corners of the battery ledge.
Thanks for the tips, I'm new to things like this, hadn't even thought of the hole saw trick for starting a cut. I didn't really understand your mouse hole idea though. The rotted area (tested tapping a screwdriver) is one section about 4" horizontal at the base by 2-3" high, and the other section about 12" horizontal and 6-8" high (a very large mouse hole). What's a "dutchman"? I'm going to bring my moisture meter to the boat so I can get a better idea of how much is rotted and how much isn't. Initially the bluish / grey tint to the wood where the paint has peeled back worried me, making me think the entire area is bad (even though it taps out okay). Now I've realized I think C&C used wood that has a blue / gray laminate or base paint layer. Because I see a similar color in the galley shelves where the white paint is peeling back a little. @Rick, there is an access panel from the quarterberth, but that panel is vertically above the area where the issue is, and it juts out about 8" - in other words, the battery cubby is inset / receded under the quarterberth. Hard to describe. So to see the wall rot from there I'd have to stick my head into the engine space, push my head down and try to bend my neck around the corner to get at the wall. I think it will be much easier to go in through the below-quarterberth storage, but I'll probably have to remove the quarterberth base panel to do that. Sorry the pictures aren't great, it's a tough area to photograph. I should've taken a video with my GoPro. -Patrick On Mon, Dec 7, 2015 at 5:14 PM, <[email protected]> wrote: > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Dave Syer <[email protected]> > To: [email protected], "[email protected]" <[email protected]> > Cc: > Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2015 19:17:48 -0500 > Subject: Re: Stus-List Rot in non-structural bulkhead - thoughts? > Sorry - a little hasty and the dreaded double post. > > If the entire bottom is rotten along a 2-3' length I would cut it out. > First though, make sure by prodding it hard with a screwdriver along its > length. Wash with bleach so you can see past the mildew.. > > I would be very surprised if the rot was not a result of standing water >> collecting at the bottom. Even condensation dripping down if it is humid >> as you say. Any rot I've found in various boats started at the end grain, >> and typically low down where water collects. The holes cut for wires are a >> typical trouble spot as there is plenty of end grain which has not been >> glassed or finished conscientiously. After you identify the rotted areas, >> cut out the rot at described below, or if its a bigger area, buy or borrow >> a Fein oscillating tool with a bimetal blade. This is a gift for boat >> surgeons. As below, ensure the repair is saturated with epoxy. >> >> My thought would be to cut above the area of rot it with a hole saw, then >> cut vertically down to the bottom, making a mouse hole. Size everything to >> remove the rot. Make the mouse hole big enough to work/sand inside. Wash >> the whole area with bleach to kill any spores. (Careful around diesel) >> Rough radius the sharp corners, sand the bottom flat and coat the whole >> thing in epoxy. Paint it white so you can see problems/mole later. If >> you need to close the hole, make a cover that laps the sides, much easier >> than fitting a 'dutchman'. (Unless you enjoy that sort of thing as I do). >> I'd be tempted to leave the mouse hole open to allow it to drain and let >> the air move. My 33ii has several areas that would (and will) benefit from >> greater air movement. >> >> Dave. >> >
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