My 38 was originally built with an A4. There are 2 4” cowl vents on the transom, with 4” ventilation hose routed into the engine space. There are 2 blowers similar to the ones that Marek identified in his post mounted under the cockpit sole; one of these is routed to push fresh air into the engine space, the other to extract air. The inlet hose was terminated above the engine and fuel tank. The outlet hose was routed to the bottom of the engine space and just aft of the engine. Both blowers are wired to the same switch on the breaker panel, so they work at the same time to move air.
I now have a diesel, and a refrigeration compressor/condenser mounted on the forward bulkhead of the cockpit locker to starboard of the engine. In order to maximize airflow to the condenser (while still circulating air in the engine space), I have rerouted the inlet hose (cool air?) to near the bottom of the condenser, and the outlet hose under the side deck above the condenser. One of these days I may wire the blowers so they go on and off with the refrigeration compressor, but for the time being they are still on the same switch on the panel and must be manually activated. Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2015 1:44 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Ryan Doyle <ryanpdo...@gmail.com> Subject: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki Hey all, I'm looking for input on a good blower installation on my 1976 C&C 30 mki. I'm almost through rewiring my entire boat and I'm up to replacing the blower. I removed the the old unit because the fan motor was dead. Judging by the look of it, it may have been original. The flexible hoses were connected to nothing, so I'm not exactly sure how it was originally hooked up. Although I surmise it exhausted through one of the two dorade vents on the transom. I assume the other dorade vent is used to just allow outside air into the engeine compartment - since there is nothing hooked up to that. I'm curious what the original blower/air inlet setup was on a 30 mki, and I'm I'm looking for the safest and most effective way to clear my engine compartment of gasoline fumes. Also, if anyone has opinions on the proper size (in CFM) of the blower(s) and the proper diameter of the flexible tubing I'd love to hear it. Thanks! On Wed, Dec 23, 2015 at 12:00 PM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> > wrote: Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> You can reach the person managing the list at cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Anchor locker lid attachment (Robert Boyer) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2015 10:11:11 -0500 From: Robert Boyer <dainyr...@icloud.com <mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: "svpegasu...@gmail.com <mailto:svpegasu...@gmail.com> " <svpegasu...@gmail.com <mailto:svpegasu...@gmail.com> >, jda...@gmail.com <mailto:jda...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Anchor locker lid attachment Message-ID: <4d4285ee-cf88-4390-aeb3-c712347f9...@icloud.com <mailto:4d4285ee-cf88-4390-aeb3-c712347f9...@icloud.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" My anchor locker lid on my LF38 is cored and it uses piano hinges. So, in 1983 that was the standard in the Rhode Island plant. Bob Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD 1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230 email: dainyr...@icloud.com <mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com <http://dainyrays.blogspot.com> "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." --Kenneth Grahame > On Dec 23, 2015, at 12:20 AM, svpegasu...@gmail.com > <mailto:svpegasu...@gmail.com> via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > Patrick, I redid my anchor locker hatch and don't remember any coring. Except > on the hatch its self. I cut the hatch in half when I installed my windlass. > I have 2 strap hinges on each half, with each one opening outboard. > > Doug Mountjoy > svPegasus > LF38 > just west of Ballard, WA. > > > ------ Original message------ > From: Patrick Davin via CnC-List > Date: Tue, Dec 22, 2015 10:54 > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> ; > Cc: Patrick Davin; > Subject:Stus-List Anchor locker lid attachment > > Next up on my winter project list: reinforcing the anchor locker lid > attachment. > > C&C's are made really well for the most part, but I had a "what were they > thinking???" moment this weekend. I was investigating the anchor locker lid > hinge (which is screwed into a recessed area of the deck) because several > screws have pulled out and there are rust stains. The surprise was it looks > like the 15-20 screws for the hinge went into wood coring. Screws in wood > core, in the wettest part of the boat! (the foredeck takes the most waves, > and when at dock it's always humid from rain) > > Pictures: > https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxfHpwssU_6NQThGM1AzTmxabU0 > <https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxfHpwssU_6NQThGM1AzTmxabU0&usp=sharing> > &usp=sharing > > Has anyone else redone their anchor locker hinge? Can you confirm that it's > cored, or am I on the crazy pills? > > The reason I suspected core in the first place is that the lid hinge is about > 1" outside of the deck area where all fiberglass was used along the toe rail. > Tap testing / sounding doesn't reveal any significant differences, so I think > the issue is very contained, surprisingly. It seems like if they had made the > anchor locker an inch or so wider, they wouldn't have had to screw in to > coring - but maybe the fiberglass layer isn't thick enough to fit the screws. > Anyway, I'm thinking ream out some core from each hole, dry it out for 3-7 > days (which may not be doable till the summer), fill with thickened epoxy and > redrill. > > -Patrick > 1984 C&C Landfall 38 > Seattle, WA > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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