Chuck, OK for you, but for some unexplainable reason I like wood on my boat, I like the teak interior and exterior parts, I like the jatoba extras I have added on and I like the fact that C&C had marine carpenters do this great work on my old boat...I find it very warm and I do need some activity in my old age...keeping it looking good I mean
Dwight Veinot C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna* Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS [email protected] On Mon, Feb 8, 2016 at 11:52 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List <[email protected] > wrote: > Agree with Martin. I would replace any wet wood; plywood or teak or oak > with a more modern, non organic solution. > I like solid glass sheet products for wet locations and starboard or > expanded PVC sheet for above deck stuff. My logic is driven by the "Let's > not ever have to do his again" approach. I like to use balsa in coring the > deck to keep it light, but other woods don't belong on a boat. > > Chuck > > > > ------------------------------ > *From: *"Martin DeYoung via CnC-List" <[email protected]> > *To: *[email protected] > *Cc: *"Martin DeYoung" <[email protected]> > *Sent: *Monday, February 8, 2016 2:05:36 PM > > *Subject: *Re: Stus-List repairing large wet deck core areas > > When faced with similar decision regarding how to replace wet plywood I > went with solid epoxy/glass cloth in the high load areas. The area > immediately around the mast is also full of fasteners (halyard blocks, > cleats, etc.) so replacing a ply or balsa core with epoxy/glass should > reduce the chance that a future owner will be faced with failed core even > if a bolt hole leaks. In less loaded areas I matched the original balsa > but paid close attention to wetting the kerfs and edges with epoxy. All > the fastener holes will be over drilled and filled with epoxy. > > > > Calypso’s designers and builders (Bruckmann’s custom shop) called for > plywood around the mast collar. When I opened up that area the 44 year old > plywood was very wet but only rotten in a few areas. Owing to the high > halyard and rig loads in the area I chose to replace the plywood with a > lay-up of epoxy, bi-ax + mat, cloth, and epoxy board. I tapered the solid > epoxy/glass into the balsa cored area (also new balsa) outward until all > the wet/failed core was replaced. > > > > As I have access to a supply of thin epoxy board I made up a pattern of > the repair area and laid up two “U” shaped inserts that worked much like > purchasing 3/8” thick epoxy board. (For a visual, think a thinish toilet > seat cut in half long ways.) I custom shaped the inner and outer edges to > the repair area (much like a dentist shapes a tooth for a crown). > > > > The full repair lay-up session took at least ½ gallon resin, 2 people, and > 5 hours. I used vacuum bag and mechanical means to hold the layers in > place. To gain the full replacement thickness it took 8 to 10 layers of > 25+OZ bi-ax + mat along with my pre-fabbed insert. > > > > I do expect to hear some interesting pops and cracks the first time we > fully power Calypso up under sail as the new epoxy/glass takes its first > full load. I also expect the hull/deck will feel stiffer than it has been > in years. > > > > Martin DeYoung > > Calypso > > 1971 C&C 43 > > Seattle > > > [image: Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F] > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:[email protected]] *On Behalf Of *Petar > Horvatic via CnC-List > *Sent:* Monday, February 08, 2016 6:41 AM > *To:* [email protected] > *Cc:* Petar Horvatic > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List repairing large wet deck core areas > > > > So I did some digging over the weekend and I can say few things regarding > deck and core along the genoa tracks for C&C38 mk2 from 1976. > > Top laminate is 3/16” thick. Balsa is ½”. > > In my case, wet areas are pretty extensive. Tapping and sounding the top > got me to mark out a big rectangular area. It extends from about 2” > inboard of the genoa track and its about 12” wide. It runs the length of > the track. > > There is a 4” wide section of marine ply (also 1/2” thick) under the track > itself. I wonder if I do the same or just keep balsa. > > I posted some horrifying photos on cruisers forum. Warning, pics are > pretty disturbing. > > http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2039627#post2039627 > > Haven’t done the bevel yet, and still have about an hour to get all the > rot out. > > As I said on CF, I’ll do epoxy repairs and use the double bias stitch mat > and toss out the top laminate. I’ve had enough of polyester. Its porous > nowhere near as strong, and if you go to trouble of doing this much work, > might as well not skimp out on material. The big question is how to > transition to gelcoat again? > > The cutout is the length of the track so I am not worried about genoa cars > getting stuck on the track due to deck transitions. > > > > Petar Horvatic > > Sundowner > > 76 C&C 38MkII > > On the hard at Stanley’s in Barrington > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > [email protected] > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > [email protected] > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > >
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