If it was foam cored you'd be excited to pay $4k+ for someone else to put up with that hassle. What a job!
Josh On Mar 1, 2016 7:39 PM, "Mark McMenamy via CnC-List" <[email protected]> wrote: > Rick, > > Thanks for the info. That makes perfect sense. The surveyor said the > lower gudgeon was leaking. When I get it down I'll open it up and put a > heat lamp on it. Things like this make me thankful to have a 25. What a > bigger pain it'd be if I had to deal with a foam cored rudder with a rusted > post. > > Do I seal the gudgeon with silicone, or is there a fitting that needs to > be replaced? > > Thanks a lot, > > Mark McMenamy > C&C 25 "Icicle" > Fort Pierce FL > > > On Mar 1, 2016, at 5:52 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List < > [email protected]> wrote: > > > > Hi Mark, > > > > The rudder on the 25 is pretty simple. Two fibreglass shells bonded > > together with plywood bonded inside the top third. > > The plywood ends about 1" below the bottom gudgeon fitting, from there to > > the bottom it is hollow. > > There should be a small hole at the bottom of the ruder and another at > the > > base of the "L" in the front of the rudder where the balance part extends > > under the hull. > > The hollow part is designed to fill with water so it is important to keep > > these holes open. > > It sounds like the plywood has absorbed some water over the years and has > > slightly swelled, cracking the aft joint. > > Ideally you should take off the rudder and store it inside in a heated > room > > and open up the aft seam to expose the plywood to allow it to dry out. > > After the plywood has dried out you can fill the seam to reseal it. > > The wood probably absorbed water from the lower gudgeon mounting holes so > > re-seal them too. > > Pouring some acetone into the crack when you're drying out the rudder may > > help to draw out some of the moisture from the plywood, just keep open > flame > > away. > > You should be OK as is for your trip down the ICW since you will be > motoring > > all the way. > > > > > > Rick Taillieu > > Nemesis > > '75 C&C 25 #371 > > Shearwater Yacht Club > > Halifax, NS. > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: CnC-List [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Mark > > McMenamy via CnC-List > > Sent: February-29-16 21:27 > > To: [email protected] > > Cc: Mark McMenamy > > Subject: Stus-List Rudder crack C&C 25 > > > > Hello everyone, > > > > I have a crack on the aft portion of the rudder where the two halves are > > joined. From what I can see, It is above the waterline. Recently I > had a > > survey done and the moisture meter said there was some dampness behind > the > > crack. Also, there are three or four dime sized blisters below the > > waterline. The rudder does not seem to be weeping when removed from the > > water. The surveyor said the rudder was serviceable but that I'd need to > > fix it in the future. Any ideas on how to repair my rudder? I saw an > > article online on how to fix rudder cracks on the side, but I'm not > quite > > sure how to fix the aft joint. Also, the boat is in St Augustine and I > need > > to move it to Fort Pierce. I'm planning on motoring down the ICW in a > > couple weeks. I'd rather take care of it when I get the boat to it's new > > home. But I'm curious if you think I should take care of it before I > leave. > > > > Thanks a lot, > > > > > > Mark McMenamy > > C&C 25 "Icicle" > > Fort Pierce FL > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Email address: > > [email protected] > > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > [email protected] > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > >
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