There are products that are, supposedly, made for such work: CPES (by
Rotdoctor) and Git-Rot (BoatLife). Supposedly CPES penetrates better. Both
of them penetrate better than the normal epoxy resin. 

However, I have no personal experience on how well they preserve the wood. I
used Git-Rot in the past on a project almost exactly like yours (rudder on
my C&C 24; it seems that they are very similar). The rudder is still in one
piece (10 years later), but I cannot tell if it is because or despite what I
did.

Marek
C270 "Legato"
(ex. 1974 C&C 24 "Fennel")
Ottawa, ON

-----Original Message-----
From: CnC-List [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Peter
Fell via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2016 10:33
To: [email protected]
Cc: Peter Fell <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder crack C&C 25

I'd avoid silicone at all costs .... it doesn't last that long and it's near
impossible to fully remove the residue when re-sealing.

Others can correct me here but it seems to me the best approach would be to
remove the gudgeon, enlarge the holes and dig out any punky plywood and let
the area dry out and re-fill them 1st with clear epoxy (soaks in) and then
with thickened epoxy. Then once it's cured re-drill the holes.  Same idea as
putting holes through your cored deck.

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII

-----Original Message-----
From: Mark McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2016 4:37 PM
To: [email protected]
Cc: Mark McMenamy
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder crack C&C 25

Rick,

Thanks for the info.  That makes perfect sense.  The surveyor said the lower
gudgeon was leaking.  When I get it down I'll open it up and put a heat lamp
on it.  Things like this make me thankful to have a 25.  What a bigger pain
it'd be if I had to deal with a foam cored rudder with a rusted post.

Do I seal the gudgeon with silicone, or is there a fitting that needs to be
replaced?

Thanks a lot,

Mark McMenamy
C&C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL 


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