I was advised, by a professional, to use a propane torch to finish the edges. It makes sense but I would have to practice a bit on scrap before I tried it on the real windows.
Al S.V. Elendil 37/40+ > On Mar 4, 2016, at 8:35 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List > <[email protected]> wrote: > > Plexiglass is very prone to developing cracks from any minor imperfections or > irregularities in the edges. If you carefully polish and buff the edges > completely smooth, cracks don't have a way to start themselves. > > Bill Bina > >> On 3/4/2016 11:15 AM, sthoma20--- via CnC-List wrote: >> Acrylic (Plexiglass) cracks easily, but is harder and more scratch resistant >> than polycarbonate (Lexan). Stock car racers use polycarbonate for >> windshields in their short track race cars. It is the more crack and impact >> resistant of the two plastics, but more likely to cloud if you are too >> aggressive washing it. It is a trade off like everything else, but I would >> lean toward the Lexan in that application. Both of my boats have long >> Plexiglass side windows, and both have one side that is cracked vertically >> more or less in the middle. >> >> Steve Thomas >> >> ---- Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <[email protected]> wrote: >> The 2 windows I replaced about 7 years ago with Sikka Flex and their primer >> have developed a lot of cracks along the top edge. These cracks are >> leaking. I cannot recall if I used polycarbonate or cast acrylic. Of the 2 >> choices which would be the better for replacement? They are relatively >> long windows that are held in only by the Sikka Flex. This time I plan >> to use 3 M tape. >> >> Fred Hazzard >> > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > [email protected] > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >
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