I have used a propane torch , but these days I’d go with a heat gun …

Tim



From: CnC-List [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Alan Liles 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 04, 2016 11:55 AM
To: [email protected]
Cc: Alan Liles
Subject: Re: Stus-List Windows ad nauseum

I was advised, by a professional, to use a propane torch to finish the edges. 
It makes sense but I would have to practice a bit on scrap before I tried it on 
the real windows.

Al
S.V. Elendil
37/40+


On Mar 4, 2016, at 8:35 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
Plexiglass is very prone to developing cracks from any minor imperfections or 
irregularities in the edges. If you carefully polish and buff the edges 
completely smooth, cracks don't have a way to start themselves.

Bill Bina
On 3/4/2016 11:15 AM, sthoma20--- via CnC-List wrote:

Acrylic (Plexiglass) cracks easily, but is harder and more scratch resistant 
than polycarbonate (Lexan). Stock car racers use polycarbonate for windshields 
in their short track race cars. It is the more crack and impact resistant of 
the two plastics, but more likely to cloud if you are too aggressive washing 
it. It is a trade off like everything else, but I would lean toward the Lexan 
in that application. Both of my boats have long Plexiglass side windows, and 
both have one side that is cracked vertically more or less in the middle.



Steve Thomas



---- Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
<[email protected]><mailto:[email protected]> wrote:

The 2 windows I replaced about 7 years ago with Sikka Flex and their primer

have developed a lot of cracks along the top edge.  These cracks are

leaking. I cannot recall if I used polycarbonate or cast acrylic.  Of the 2

choices which would be the better for replacement?  They are relatively

long windows that are held in only by the Sikka Flex.   This time  I plan

to use 3 M tape.



Fred Hazzard



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