Rick, Thanks for the info. As far as those tang (toggles?) fittings that were used on our rigs, it was explained to me that they were a cause of rig failures. The caps were designed to move in tandem with the rod but given that they were a combination of stainless steel and aluminum they quickly seized up and cause the neck of the rod to be nicked and weakened. Hence the newer K200 style of tang which I converted to. Like John Sandford, I had to break all of the original K100 tangs to get them out of the mast.
Interestingly, I was thinking Dyform when the rigger started to discuss replacements but he specifically said that it was not Dyform (which he called old technology…) so that’s why I’m at a loss to understand what the type of standing rigging it is. I’ll find out in a week or two when we get together to go over my rig. Best, Dave Godwin 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin Reedville - Chesapeake Bay Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/> > On Nov 3, 2016, at 11:12 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > Dave; > > Could he have been referring to Dyform wire? That is a multi-strand wire made > of individual wires that are sort of wedge shaped in cross section, so the > strands are packed more densely than in conventional wire. It has both > smaller diameter and greater tensile strength than conventional wire. > > I had my 38 rerigged in about 2011, after one of the toggles in my rig broke > during a race in windy and rough conditions. The old toggles may or may not > have been original and also may have been of a generation that was recalled > and replaced by Navtec. But I began to doubt the integrity of my (then) 35 > year old rod rigging. > > Navtec says that dye testing is not adequate on old rod, and recommended > replacement of rod over something like 20 years old. Their suggestion was to > remove the rod , coil it on a pallet (I think it was Dennis C who said a coil > of 200x rod diameter) with a coil about 5’ diameter, and ship it to them for > non-destructive testing (X-ray, I think), and they would ship it back. Cost > would have been about $3500 plus the cost of reheading or replacement > depending on what the Navtec testing showed. > > My rigger suggested Dyform wire as a high value alternative. The wire turns > out to be about 1/16th larger in diameter than the #10 rod (so slightly more > windage) but also has a higher tensile strength than the rod it replaces. > Rigger swaged on ends that fit the existing tangs in the mast, and used > Sta-Loc fittings on the lower end so the wire could be cut to the proper > lengths. > > Turns out that replacing the rod headstay with wire was probably a good idea. > Maker of my furler (Bamar) recommends not using a rod headstay. They say that > grit & dirt that gets into the bearings in the foil can score the rod and > create stress risers that can lead to rod failure. The recommend installing a > wire headstay if you have one of their roller furlers. > > All up cost for the Dyform wire rerigging of my 38 was about $3900 – just > $400 more than the estimate from Navtec and the rigger for the R&R of the > rod, shipping & inspection. Semmed like a good idea – and a lot less costly > that reheading/replacing the rod. > > Rick Brass > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com > <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin via CnC-List > Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2016 12:43 PM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Cc: Dave Godwin <dave.god...@me.com <mailto:dave.god...@me.com>> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38 > > He mentioned some sort of new small diameter rod/wire standing rigging as a > replacement but I failed to catch the name. Unless he can really convince me > that it is better, I’m inclined to replace all the rod. The boat and rig were > designed for rod. And I’ve already put money into new tangs. One thing that I > did do back in 1999 was replace the forestay with wire due to a nick in the > rod and adding a roller furling setup. > > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish > to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray> > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
_______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
