I was intimidated by rod until I talked too my local boutique marina.  They
had no qualms and no hesitation.  They don't do the heading themselves but
rather send it to Annapolis.  I don't know who.

I was faced with many of the same questions and emotions regarding my rig.
I had it inspected and asked the opinion of the inspector.  They stated
that in all of their years they had only ever seen 3 rod failures.  All had
been a single rod on a side stay and as I recall were all well in excess of
20 years old.  My bigger concern was the headstay, it has no backups.  The
inspection had found a minor defect.  The rigger had said everything else
looked fine but the headstay was questionable.  It worried me since the
furling extrusion hides the stay and makes it uninspectable.  I had it
replaced and upsized from #12 to #17 rod.  The complete furler rebuild with
new rod and new end fittings was ~$1200.  It was so inexpensive compared to
a new furler.  The added weight of the rod was about 4lbs.

You should also remember that rod is superior to the alternatives because
of its low stretch.  This was reinforced by my sail maker when I asked his
opinion.  Without hesitation he said, "Keep the rod!"

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Nov 19, 2016 5:48 PM, "Patrick Davin via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> Ok, I've found out a lot more in the last 3 weeks, but am frustratingly no
> closer to making a decision. All I've learned is that Navtec parts are
> really expensive and complex. And that everyone I talk to disagrees with
> the previous person (ie, even professional riggers don't agree on what is
> recommended + safe) - I suppose this is normal in sailing though.
>
> I found a few more old threads from the C&C list:
>
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2011-Nov
> ember/041498.html
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2014-April/066294.html
>
> A lot of it seems to come down to the Navtangs. Navtec changed the design
> several times (to make improvements), and Navtec had so much employee
> turnover that there's only one guy remaining who has been through all the
> iterations.
>
> My previous thinking was based on that my '84 has K150 tangs with SS tie
> rods (confirmed by a rigger when we pulled one tang last year). And the
> tang was easily unscrewed, which lends me hope the other 3 would also be
> similar. So I assumed I could reuse my tangs, because it seems other C&C
> owners did so, and last year's rigger said it looked reusable (based on
> visual inspection).
>
> However a more conservative rigger basically implied I would be stupid to
> reuse it. Navtec recommends replacing them - but Navtec recommends
> replacing anything older than 12 years old, so I don't really know what to
> make of Navtec's advice (they have no incentive *not* to recommend
> replacing their hardware with new hardware of their own).
>
> A local rigger told me the navtangs are $1000 each. I have 4 of them, so
> replacing them would basically double the cost of a rerig (and that's not
> counting any labor cost). (I think the $1k/each is an overestimate though -
> I found a price online of $500-600).
>
> It seems like a lot of people who have rerigged haven't actually done full
> rerigs - ie, they reused turnbuckles, or tangs. I do agree with the more
> conservative rigger that it doesn't make sense to leave a "weak link" in
> the system. But I'm not sure whether old navtangs must be automatically
> condemned into the category of being a weak link.
>
> I'm seriously thinking about a wire conversion again, but that has it's
> own complications. Has anyone done that on the side shrouds? From archives
> I know Calypso did forestay/backstay, but those are easy to convert. The
> mast tangs and discontinuous lower spreader junction are the tricky part.
>
> I found a Youtube channel where they replaced their Navtec rig with wire:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVhj714rleQ
>
> But they have a Niagara 35 with a single spreader rig rather than double,
> so that makes it a bit simpler. And the well-known rigger Brion Toss has
> said (in his forum) that for a C&C, he would stay with rod, because rod
> makes a difference to the responsiveness of C&C's.
>
> -Patrick
> 1984 C&C Landfall 38
> Seattle, WA
>
> On Thu, Nov 3, 2016 at 9:16 AM, Patrick Davin <jda...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Right, I totally get the mast would need to be pulled if I were
>> reheading. Doing it one side at a time would take too long. I'm not
>> planning to rehead though. From what I've heard it seems like reheading
>> only saves a moderate percentage of money, and getting new rod gives me
>> extra piece of mind that I did the full job, plus simplifies some things -
>> my backstay hydraulic adjuster is also dead, so I will replace that at the
>> same time, and if the new adjuster is a different length, I'll simply order
>> the new backstay to the proper size.
>>
>> I also considered going wire instead of rod, but the rigger I talked to
>> last year said it might not save that much money converting to wire,
>> considering the cost of mast tangs or other changes that would need to be
>> made. I could easily go wire on just the forestay and backstay. But not
>> sure that's worth the inconsistency.
>>
>> Mostly I'm interested in the logistics of doing it DIY - for others that
>> went that route, what went wrong, what was easy, what was hard, etc.
>>
>> On Thu, Nov 3, 2016 at 8:15 AM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> From: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>
>>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>>> Cc:
>>> Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2016 11:01:48 -0400
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38
>>> If you have rod rigging, the rod needs to be reheaded.  It is not a DIY
>>> job.  If you want to replace wire, I highly recommend Rigging and and
>>> Hardware
>>> www.RiggingAndHardware.com​ for great service and pricing.  They did
>>> new lifelines for my 44 for about $620.  The rig would have to be down if
>>> you want to send them the old wire.  If its rod, shipping is not practical,
>>> so they would go on measurements alone.
>>>
>>> Joel
>>> Former 35/3
>>> Hylas 44
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
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