Thanks everyone for your input! Based on what was said, I'll agree that what
we have is a symmetrical spinnaker. At this point, there is no ring nor a
track on the front of the mast onto which to mount a slide car ring.
There is also a babystay to contend with, which presumably would not allow me
to do the dip-pole approach, but having never done it, perhaps I'm not
visualizing the concept properly.
At any rate, we're cruisers (though we love to cruise fast!), which means that
at least for now, we'll use the spinnaker as asymmetrical, and figure it out
from there. I have some friends that are due back from a cruise, and I'm sure
they have experience with both types, so that will help me tremendously.
Thank again, everyone, this list is invaluable! Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: C&C <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: ALAN BERGEN <trya...@alumni.usc.edu>
Sent: Sunday, July 2, 2017 2:57 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List DQOTD - Cruising spinnaker - Luff v. Leach?
Most of what Josh said is correct. However, all symmetrical spinnakers I have
seen have the numbers on both sides of the spinnaker, so you don't have to be
concerned about which side is port and which side is starboard.Before you buy
any necessary gear for the spinnaker, learn about end for end gybes and dip
pole gybes. People who do end for end gybes swear that they are easier than
dip pole gybes, and those who use dip pole, swear that they are easier than end
for end. I have done both, and I prefer dip pole. They are safer, as you
never have to disconnect the pole from the mast during a gybe. Also the
connection to the mast is stronger. (I once had the ring on my mast track
twist out of shape on a boat with which I did end for end.) That's what caused
me to switch to dip pole, and I never regretted it. When I was getting new
crew for my boat, none of them had ever done dip pole gybes, but I trained
them, and they are now expert at it. If you're not going to race your boat,
you can use the spinnaker as though it were an A-sail, so you should learn
about how an A-sail is handled also. You didn't indicate what size boat you
have. With a smaller boat, end for end gybes are the way to go. At thirty
feet, you can go either way. At thirty-four feet and larger, I recommend dip
pole. Keep in mind, though, it's not the boat length that makes one a better
choice than the other. It's the size of the spinnaker. My previous boat was
an Ericson 2-30, with a tall mast. The spinnaker was 1,000 square feet, and
the boat was set up for dip pole gybes
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Sat, Jul 1, 2017 at 7:04 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
It sounds like a symmetrical spinnaker. The luff and leach are the same
length... In fact they are interchangeable depending on the tack of the boat.
You'll need a spinnaker pole roughly equal to the "J" length (head stay to the
mast). The pole is set parallel/in line with the boom, jaws facing up so that
when they are opened the jaw can fall away from the mast ring and the "guy" can
fly up. The pole will have 2 bridles, one on top, one on bottom. Both bridles
will be anchored are the pole ends and will have a ring fixed in the center.
There isn't much need to have the bridles tight so the rings may ride 12 to 24
inches above/below the pole. The top bridle creates a way to lift the pole
with a rope that exists the mast about halfway up and below impediments such as
a radar. This rope is called the topping tift and is used to hold the pole
horizontal. The bottom bridle is attached to a rope that attaches to the
foredeck directly below. This rope is usually lead aft along the toe rail and
cleated off. It is called thw down haul and is used to prevent the outboard
end of the pole from being lifted up by the spinnaker and "flying away". The
inboard end of the pole attaches to a ring on a track mounted on the forward
face of the mast. Typically I try to raise the ring to about my height, this
lifts the inboard end of the pole - high but easy to reach. The topping lift
can then be used to lift and hold the rest of the pole horizontal as mentioned
above. Both jaws on the pole should have release lines wich extend ~3/4 of the
length and are anchored near the opposite end. This allows the operator to
open either jaw from nearly any location along the pole.
The out board end of the pole gets the windward spinsheet which until the next
jibe will be called the "guy". The leeward spinsheet is just call the sheet.
Both of these lines are typically run through turning blocks near the aft end
of the toe rail which keep the lines lead outside of the life lines and then
fairlead them inside to a secondary winch. Trimming the guy means keeping the
pole perpendicular to the wind. Trimming the sheet means letting it out until
the windward sail edge (pole side) begins to curl - too much curl? - sheet in.
Every time you jibe you will sail dead down wind ease the guy so that the pole
is roughly at a 45° angle. The sheet should be roughly matched. Standing
infront of the mast facing forward the foredeck operator will reach up to the
mast ring, pull the jaw release for the jaw in the ring. The pole is now
supported by and free to pivot about on the top and bottom bridles. What was
the inboard jaw is now pushed out towards what was the leeward side of the
boat. The jaw is opened and what was the sheet is hooked in the jaw. Next
what was the outboard end jaw is opened releasing what was the guy and that jaw
is hooked to the mast ring. The foredeck operator shouts "MADE!" so that the
helm can finish the maneuver by jibing the mainsail and the crew can trim the
spinnaker. The old guy is now the sheet and the old sheet is now the guy. The
"leach" and the "luff" have also swapped.
Some setups include "twings" which are open cheak snatch blocks placed at the
widest part of the toe rail on each side of the boat. This holds the guy down
and helps prevent the pole from flying in addition to the down haul. Early in
the jibe (about the same time that the helm is turning dead down wind) the guy
is released from the twing, again windward side = guy. After the pole is
"MADE!" the new guy will be inserted into its respective twing on the new
windward side.
Each sheet will probably need to be about twice the boat length.
This is an end for end jibe and its easier to show than to explain and easier
to explain than to master.
Oh, and the green stripe usually would indicate the starboard side of the sail
but that is just so that the front faces forward and numbers can be read.
Often sail makers will put red stripes on the port side and a yellow stripe on
the foot. This also help when packing the sail in a traditional bag. Since
you have a sock it is less needed.
Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD
On Jul 1, 2017 8:33 PM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
OK, seems like a dumb question. We spread out the cruising spinnaker on our
lawn today, having not put it up before on our new (to us) C&C 37/40+/. It is
in a spinnaker sock. The sheets were in the bag, but not attached to the sail.
It is made by UK. Along one edge is a bright green strip. It seems like that
is the luff, rather than the leach, but I can't tell for sure. There are no
labels that I can see, nor an edge with a cable or reinforced luff seemingly
build in. Both sides seem to be the same length. Do I have an asymmetrical
spinnaker, and if I do, is the green the leach or the luff?
New to spinnakers, so your help would be greatly appreciated,
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
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35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
_______________________________________________
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
_______________________________________________
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
