Did this last year on our 34'. Dave and Mike are spot on with everything. Definitely tape the lines where you will be cutting to protect the veneer. I also used a circular saw, table saw, jig saw and a router. Used a hand planner for final tweaking of the cuts.
My new lines were not the same width as the old but it wasn't much of an issue. When you trace out the templates it isn't too hard to line everything up. One thing I did that I didn't see mentioned was to drill all holes before applying any epoxy. I also epoxied the whole thing to seal it in completely, then finished with epifanes. I used West system 105/207. The 207 is a clear hardener that won't mess up the top finish. I did about 3-4 coats of each. A foam roller for the epoxy and foam brushes for the varnish. I tried the cheapo chip brushes but continuously got stray bristles everywhere. The epoxy if I remember correctly you didn't want it to dry completely between coats. The varnish I wet sanded in between coats. Gradually getting higher in grit between each. Try to control dust as much as possible. Do this in a clean area where there isn't much traffic. Or surround it all by plastic to prevent anything from getting into it. It was definitely a long, tedious process. But it was definitely worth it. Our old sole was chipping and so deteriorated. But once this went in, it was like it was a new boat. Kevin Paxton 82' 34 Cornfield creek, Pasadena, MD On Wed, Sep 27, 2017, 7:05 PM Dave Godwin via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Jonathan, > > I don’t have much to add to what Mike has said but his is pretty good > advice. I’ve replaced the cabin sole on “Ronin” twice. You should need two > 4’x8’ pieces of teak and holly plywood. I suspect that it will be 3/4” just > like our 37’. As Mike said, get your wallet out… > > I used a router for the final edging to size. Like Mike, I used a > “Skillsaw” for the long straight edges and a Bosch jig-saw for smaller cuts > into corners. I kept the dimensions at least 1/4” larger than the original > flooring layout. > > I used the old flooring as a template and router guide, with attendant > problems > <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/2015/03/week-five-amateur-woodworker.html> > to produce the final product. West System epoxy > <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/2015/03/week-six-no-break-in-weather.html> > for > sides and backs. The first set that I built lasted about 12-14 years but > moisture will infiltrate over time, especially if the holes for screwing > the flooring in are dry. I used gloss Awlwood for surfacing, finished off > with a standard satin finish varnish. The first time I did this job I > finished with a gloss finish. I decided over time that I preferred satin. > > One thing to keep in mind: The original teak and holly that C&C used in my > 1982 model was NOT the same as what is currently being sold. The new teak > and holly plywood has wider parallel widths. > > One thing is for sure, when you are done it will look tremendous! > > Best, > Dave Godwin > 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin > Reedville - Chesapeake Bay > Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/> > > On Sep 27, 2017, at 12:58 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Hi Jonathan > > I just completed this project in the Spring of 2016. The Frers 33 is not > the same boat as the C&C 35-III but a lot of the techniques for this job > are similar so I will answer a bit of what I can to some of your questions. > > First be prepared for sticker shock. I purchased a single 4x8 sheet of > 3/4 inch teak and holly and it was over $600 CAD. > > 1a) Lining up. I took out all of the existing pieces and took them home. > When I traced out and before cutting the new pieces I lined up the holly > lines with those of the pieces being replaced with the assumption that it > would line up the same as the old sole. It did. I think the first step > will be to ensure your current sole does in fact have the strips lined up. > > 1b) Number of pieces. Try an inexpensive piece of 4x8 pressboard or > paneling or something similar that is 1/4 inch thick. When I bought my > sheet of teak and Holly it came with something like this to protect the > surface during transport. Once you have this lay out the pieces of old > sole on top and trace them out. You can then turn it over to trace out the > remaining pieces on the back. Is kind of like a jigsaw puzzle but will > give you a pretty clear picture how many pieces of sole material are > needed. If you use a couple of these 1/4 4 x 8 sheets you could also cut > out the traced pieces and use them to test fit in your boat as I did before > cutting the expensive teak and holly. One thing I encountered was that my > jigsaw fitting had to be amended a bit when I laid the old sole pieces atop > the new sole to account for the lining up of holly strips. > > 2) Tools. I am certain that others have better suggestions for tool but I > used a circular saw for my straight cuts and a jigsaw for the curved cuts > (there were not many curves). On the tapered edges along the underside I > used a angle grinder with a sanding pad. Also a Random Orbital sander to > smooth the edges of my cuts. I put masking tape over the lines to be cut > before using the saw to reduce splintering. > > 3) Epoxy. Yes the underside but more importantly the edges. Almost every > case I have heard of soles delaminating and the finish lifting starts with > water intrusion from the edges. Yes the first coat should be thinned (West > has advice about how to thin for first coat on wood). At least three coats > IMO. > > 4) For the exposed cosmetic surface I applied three coats of West 105/206 > followed by three coats (or four?) of Epifanes varnish. I chose the Satin > finish and in a test piece it looked far better than the gloss and hides > many small imperfections. I used a brush for varnish and roll/tip with > foam roller for epoxy.. Interestingly this year I learned that diesel fuel > is preferred for maintaining a varnish brush when not in use. (I used a > new brush every coat on the sole) > > A few other brief comments. > > i. My fall project list now includes pulling up the sole to sand and > reapply epoxy to the edges. I plan to do this every second Fall. I am > paranoid about water intrusion > > ii. The largest sections will barely squeeze in through companionway. > Expect to have the trim around companionway marred and in need of refinish. > > iii. getting the large sections up a ladder and into a covered boat in the > off season is very tricky. Plan ahead > > Best of luck with this project. The end result will be outstanding! > > Mike > Persistence > 1987 Frers 33 #16 (not a C&C) > Halifax, NS > http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo > via CnC-List > Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2017 12:33 PM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Indigo > Subject: Stus-List Replacing Cabin Sole - 35MkIII > > I am just about to start on the project to replace the teak and Holly > cabin sole on Indigo. I have gleaned much info / advice from past postings > on this list, but was wondering if anyone has prepared a "step by step" > guide. > > Things I need help on! > > 1) steps to ensure that the Holly lines up exactly for each piece. I > recently asked, and was told I need 2 pieces of 4' x 8' to complete the job > and allow the lines to match up - but I thought from past postings that 3 > pieces are needed. Can someone who has done a 35mkiii confirm which? > > 2) best tool(s) to use to cut out the new pieces using the old boards as > templates. Any tips / techniques to ensure accuracy and minimise damage to > new veneer? > > 3) I know I should epoxy the underneath (and sides?) of the boards - how > many coats are advised - can the first coat be "thin" to aid penetration > into the plywood? > > 4) advice on what to use for the top surface - presumably a polyurethane > varnish - preferred brand, number of coats recommended, what finish (matt, > semi-gloss, gloss?) > > -- > Jonathan > Indigo C&C 35III > SOUTHPORT CT > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > _______________________________________________ > > The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up > again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a > small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send > contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All contributions are greatly appreciated! > > > _______________________________________________ > > The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up > again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a > small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send > contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All contributions are greatly appreciated! >
_______________________________________________ The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated!
