You can route the discharge piping to a level above the discharge connection 
from the hull and do it well before the discharge line gets to the discharge 
connection from the hull.  From its high point it could be self-draining 
outward to the discharge connection.  By doing this it minimizes the amount of 
bilge water that will flow back into the bilge when the pump shuts off.

I would not use a check valve in the bilge discharge line because it is the 
last place you want a line blockage.

Bob

> On Jan 15, 2019, at 12:30 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Question: without a check valve how do you stop the pump from continually 
> recycling the water remaining in hose. It’s almost 20 feet from the pump and 
> switch to the transom. 
> Fred Hazzard 
> S/V Fury 
> C&C 44
> Portland Or 
> 
> On Tue, Jan 15, 2019 at 9:16 AM Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Hi,
> 
> My Rule 1500 is broken and i'm looking for a replacement. I know some people 
> here have a system including the mandatory manual pump, the "main", often 
> turbine type  electric pump and a low GPH suction pump to empty the bilge.
> 
> I'm not quite there yet, and would just like to get the best "main" electric 
> pump that could fit. Is there a better option than the Rule 1500 out there 
> that would have about the same footprint ? Whale has a new line but the pump 
> is a bit bigger. Could a equivalent capacity diaphragm pump be a choice ? 
> What about auto pump with integrated switch, are they reliable ?
> 
> My setup includes a Rule float swith that will be replaced with a "water 
> witch" switch once broken and i use a check valve. (i know some are against 
> this, aka Rule themself).
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> Bruno Lachance
> Bécassine, 33 mkII
> new-Richmond, Qc
> Canada
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Robert Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38, Hull #230

411 Walnut Street #11447
Green Cove Springs, FL 32043
(443) 994-1802

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