I've used Rotella oil for years with good success. I also used Amsoil for a
spell when I was driving a lot more for work, but I barely manage 15k/year
now, so Rotella T6 5w40 in my Jetta TDI has worked well for 10 years. In my
van, which has an older VW IDI turbo diesel, similar in technology to a
Yanmar, I use either T6 (full synth) or T5 (semi-synth), for the extra heat
protection over the T4 conventional oil. My van loaded is much like pushing
a heavy boat at hull speed, and oil temps will easily approach 300F on long
hills. This is where synthetics earn their keep - I see a 10psi improvement
in hot oil pressure using T6 5w40 vs T4 15w40 when oil temps are 220+. My
1.6TD van engine was at nearly 700,000 kms before it sadly died this summer
due to a failed timing belt.
If you don't push your engine too hard, conventional Rotella T4 15w40 is
fine, but either T5 or T6 will give an extra margin of safety when things
get hot, like if your water pump fails.
As far as oil changes, most synthetics will go a long time between changes,
but in the marine environment, where more contaminants may be a factor, and
for the small amount of oil these engines use, regular annual changes make
sense. Also RW cooled engines tend to run cooler, which may result in the
oil being more likely to accumulate moisture and become acidic sooner.
Since the VW 1.6D in my 35 is not working all that hard, I plan to use T5
semi-synthetic, and this is what the PO used. It has over 4000 hrs and
doesn't burn any oil, or smoke, even when cold. In fact, it may have much
more than 4000 hrs as I discovered the hour meter is a bit lethargic, and
either runs too slow, or intermittently...
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sun, Sep 1, 2019 at 5:01 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> It’s all about the hydrodynamic film thickness provided by the oil. As
> long as that film is thicker than the major dimension of any asperities
> like surface roughness or oil borne particles that get trapped between the
> contacting surfaces then all is well from an accelerated abnormal wear
> point of view. We call it the lambda ratio which is film thickness divided
> by asperity size. You want a number greater than 1 which means no metal to
> metal contact so no wear. Anti wear additives like tricresyl phosphate in
> the oils we have nowadays build up a protective layer on the metal surfaces
> in an effort to make sure the lambda ratio stays greater than 1 and fine
> filtration traps extraneous particles that might defeat this. Our science
> is good and the engineering supports it. Again the oils we get to choose
> from are all good quality nowadays. Very good really and they can last very
> long times under our normal engine running temperatures without any thermal
> degradation.
>
> On Sat, Aug 31, 2019 at 4:55 PM Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> Hi Ron, Wade & Bill,
>>
>> It seems engine oil can be an emotional topic. For any experienced
>> yachtsmen out there who have a system and are happy with it, please don't
>> change any practice that works for you on my account.
>>
>> For newbies and others, I typically advise that engine oil is the
>> cheapest thing we buy for our boats. Change it as often as you feel like
>> it. My routine was every fall except every other if I had less than 100
>> hours on that year.
>>
>> The filter gets changed much less.
>> Filter fun facts, filtering performance gets better as it gets dirty and
>> the blackness of oil is unburned carbon too small to filter (not harmful).
>>
>> When long distance cruising I used to save the used engine oil to use as
>> the 10:1 oil ration for my Seagull outboard. It wore a diaper when loaded
>> on the rail to keep the deck from dark stains. Livin' on the cheap, doncha
>> know!
>>
>> The main degradation factors of engine oils are heat & pressure followed
>> by combustion products (blowby) & moisture. A properly sized diesel runs
>> much higher loading than a gasoline transportation engine.
>> Thus the hierachy of engine oil can be stated as:
>> GOOD - gasoline engine rated oils
>> BETTER - diesel engine rated oils (higher detergent additives than gas
>> rated)
>> BEST - 100% synthetic feedstock oils
>>
>> So, Rotella Triple T is great for all of our applications. The main
>> reason I run synthetics though is for heat tolerance. If you lose cooling
>> capacity and don't notice right away then when "something smells HOT!"
>> happens the synthetic oil may be the difference between an inconvenience
>> and disaster.
>>
>> Syn is not for all cases of course. Last winter a buddy was on a bike
>> trip, 1200 CC air cooled,  to Mexico and wanted to "treat it right" by
>> putting fresh synthetic in. I said, "No. No. Don't do that. Synthetic is
>> too slippery for the wet clutch. Use something that has the JEMA rating,
>> like Rotella Triple-T." He did a 15,000 km trip on that oil change with
>> only putting in top-ups.  Not recommended at all but demonstrates the
>> quality of regular rated diesel oil.
>>
>>         Cheers, Russ
>>         ex-* Sweet *35 mk-1
>>
>> At 10:36 AM 8/31/2019, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
>>          boundary="----=_Part_716484_1681950774.1567272988188"
>> Content-Length: 1916
>>
>>
>>
>> I'd been told by a mechanic, that one shouldn't put 100% synthetic oil in
>> an old vehicle that had been using regular oil all its life.  The claim was
>> that it would clean the engine too good and it would start leaking.
>> It's highly recommended for newer cars of course.
>> I would presume the same would be true for marine engines, unless the
>> fact that they're diesels would make a difference???
>> Anyone else ever heard that story and have heard whether it's true or not?
>> Ron
>> Wild Cheri
>> C&C 30-1
>> STL
>>
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>> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
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