Your pennant hook-up may differ from my version (1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb) but be prepared for the following: 1. If your board is still contained within the trunk when down and the pennant is under tension, you will have to let the pennant drop farther than just board down. This will require securing the pennant past its normal stop point on deck but allow you to get to the board end of the pennant. I have used a U-bolt style 'cable' clamp on the pennant somewhere beyond the normal stop to hold it from dropping too far. If you can get to the board end of the pennant when it is down in its usual position, things are (relatively) easy. 2. The board end of the pennant may have a sacrificial shackle on it so that it gives way before an enthusiastic grinder pulls the 'fitting' buried within the board out--not good since its repair requires board removal! If the shackle is there, it should be replaced as well. 3. I am pretty sure that the fitting at the board end of the pennant is either a small thimble or just a secured wire loop--either way, it likely has to be made (or at least 'crimped') on site since neither the thimble or wire loop is likely to fit down the pipes that contain the pennant. 4. If the board maximum down position is determined by the pennant (not the trunk), maintaining the pennant length between the stop fitting on deck and the attachment point to the board is important. Otherwise it may be too far down when down (maybe lower than the boats specs) and then doesn't present a vertical slope that matches the trunk--bad for turbulence if speed is important (when racing). Also and more important, if too far down, the board may not have enough length within the trunk to resist (without failure) the sideways/athwartship pressure on it when going to windward. Of course, if it is too short it might be possible to jam the board in its up position by raising it too far. Depending on how yours is rigged, you may have more flexibility than I have: my pennant stop is thru bolted with 6 bolts on deck and I have about 33 inches from it to its fully winched up position determined by the distance from the stop to the cabin top rope clutch. Thus if fully up at a spec of ~ 4' 6" draft (board fully up, just inside trunk), it goes down 33 inches to ~ 7'3" when down. I suggest you be prepared to cut it too length and crimp it (around thimble or not) at the boat and only finish the deck end off the boat. Again, if you can get to the board end of the pennant with the board fully down (to its stop), most of the above doesn't apply.
FWIW, Charlie Nelson1995 C&C 36 XL/kcbWater Phantom -----Original Message----- From: Rod Fisk via CnC-List <[email protected]> To: cnc-list <[email protected]> Cc: Rod Fisk <[email protected]> Sent: Tue, Oct 1, 2019 1:08 pm Subject: Stus-List 36-1 centerboard pendant I have to replace the wire pendant on my 1981 36-1. There are some broken wires where the cable wraps around the thimble at the deck end. Does anyone have any detailed specs or drawings? I work at an industrial rigging shop so I can have a new one made. I also want to know what to expect when I lift the boat this month so I have the right tools to take off the old one. ThanksRod Fisk36-1 Corsair Lake Winnebago, WI_______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
_______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
