I've been varnishing adjacent to my job for decades. I’m a practical 
traditionalist when it comes to vanishing. When I stripped and refinished the 
sole on Peregrine, my 40, I built up using a few coats of Pettit clear sealer 
applied over a day. This I let cure for a few days, then after a light sanding 
with 150, I started with Epiphanes Wood finish Gloss, which allows you to 
redcoat without sanding for up to three coats. After the first three coats 
cured for a few days I sanded flat to fill up the grain. Another round or two 
of three coats of Wood Finish Gloss and sanding with 180 to rough up the 
surface I applied a “final coat” (with varnish, there's no such thing as a 
final coat) of regular Epiphanes Gloss varnish. They had lasted looking good 
for six years when I sold the boat to David. I gave Masquerade's sole a similar 
treatment and it still looks good after two seasons in New England and one in 
the Caribbean and a few races.
Gloss varnish is the only way to go for the sole as satin varnish is much 
softer and won’t wear nearly as well. Yes, gloss is slipperier when wet, but 
only marginally. A traditional yacht finish holds the sole finished with gloss 
if its teak and holly.
Andy
Currently stuck in Bermuda wait for a nasty low to blow by.

Andrew Burton
139 Tuckerman Ave
Middletown, RI 
USA    02842

www.burtonsailing.com
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Nov 9, 2019, at 10:14, Nathan Post via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> I managed to salvage the teak and holly floor on my boat with a bunch of 
> sanding and then revarnishing. I glued the plywood back together where it was 
> delaminating near the edge and ended up sanding through the the holly stops 
> near a few edges where it was in rough shape but it still looks pretty good 
> and has been very functional.  Depending on how bad it is you might want to 
> try just salvaging what is there.
> 
> - -
> Nathan Post
> S/V Wisper
> 1981 C&C 34
> Lynn, MA
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