My fuel filter is about even with the middle of the tank. My vacuum gauge sits right on 0 usually. The Racor gauge has the yellow zone at 7 inches and the red zone at 10 inches.

Joe

Coquina

On 5/25/2020 12:14 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
Wade,

Look at the picture of a 500 series racor in the link below.  The factory top has a t handle which is used to tighten the lid.  The vacuum gauge which Joe linked replaces that t-handle.  The t arms are not used to sense pressure - just for tightening the lid.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/172954061164

BTW: these 500 series are notorious for being easily over tightened which warps the lid and causes leaks.

The 500 series is 60gph which would be close to 60 times the flow capacity required for any one of our engines.  Even with a 2 micron filter I would not expect much if any vacuum being formed, though it should be noted that the vacuum represents the effort required to "lift" the fuel out of the tank AND the effort required to suck the fuel through the filter.  Yanmar typically rates their engines for up to 10 feet of lift.  Diesel is 34" per psi so 10 feet = ~3.5 psi. Even with no filter element installed the vacuum  for 10 feet of vertical lift of diesel fuel would amount to 100 inH2O, 3.5psia or 7 inHg.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Sun, May 24, 2020, 23:03 Wade Glew via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

    Hi Joe
    Looking at the guage you've linked to, its obvious the "T" arms go
    in the fuel line between the Racor and engine. Where does the
    threaded base of the T go?  What is a normal pressure? What
    pressure reading makes you decide to change filters?  Are the
    lined just clamped with small hose clamps or what?
    Wade
    Oh Boy 33-2

    On Sun, May 24, 2020, 17:15 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List,
    <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

        A vacuum gauge is one of the best cost/benefit ratio
        improvements you can do. You can save a lot of $$$ in unneeded
        filter changes and get advanced warning when you do need to
        change one.

        Be official:

        
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=racor+gauge&_sacat=0

        Cockpit mount with light:

        https://moyermarine.com/product/vacuum-gauge-kit-gaug_07-1_532/
        (also can be used for manifold vacuum)

        Cheap:

        
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-1-2-Vacuum-Gauge-Chrome-Plated-Steel-Case-1-4-NPT-Lower-Mnt-30-inHg-0/183642544745?hash=item2ac1f2da69:g:2gUAAOSwJiBcQOWz

        
https://www.ebay.com/itm/LIQUID-FILLED-VACUUM-GAUGE-30-0-PSI-2-5-FACE-1-4-NPT-LOWER-MOUNT-WOG/192746480989?hash=item2ce095e55d:g:RiQAAOSwqoxcBW9S


        Joe Coquina C&C 35 MK I


        On 5/24/2020 3:39 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List wrote:
        Time and again I have read that Yanmar does not recommend a
        2/3 micron primary filter.  I therefore use a 10 micron, and
        use Biobar, as well as some Seafoam.   I have some old crud
        in my tank, but where I can see it through the hole for the
        sender, the bits I can see are pretty well stuck to the
        bottom of the tank (and there are not many of them).  That
        said, the boat had sat at the dock for +/- 6 years before I
        got her, and we have run 150 gallons or so of fuel through
        the boat in the last 4 years.

        I change my Racor every year, and I used to change the one on
        the engine every year as well.  This time, I'm going to let
        the engine mounted one go another year.  We still get a fine
        layer of black "grit" at the bottom of the racor over the
        year, but it does not appear to hinder the running of the
        engine.

        I'd rather swap out a $20 filter once a year than risk the
        engine shutting down as I go through a bridge opening with 3
        kts. of current.

        To each their own,

        Bruce


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