The Balmar Altmount Pulley kit was $443. For my engine, they vary. Fit over the front flange was perfect. Really a nice machining job. The only thing I didn’t like is that is that it is a fine 10 groove, rather than a K-6 that most cars have. Got it at PKYS. That is a nice thing about the Beta’s, they already have serpentine belts.
Bill Coleman From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Risch via CnC-List Sent: Friday, June 26, 2020 3:08 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: David Risch Subject: Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting Josh…same conclusion as Bill on dust and serpentine belts. I am running a 80amp Balmar alternator which is the top end of a single belt. Dust. No matter what quality belt I buy. Dual belts may help, but as Bill says…Serpentine is the man. But an expensive man. Pulleys are expensive I guess… Any other ideas out there? David F. Risch (401) 419-4650 From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Friday, June 26, 2020 2:51 PM To: C&C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting I believe you are correct. I love the idea of serpentine belts but as I recall the conversion kits are approaching $1000. I can spend money where and if needed on value added repairs and improvements, but $1000 for something that isn't broke, phew! That's a hefty upgrade. Do you have a cheaper source? Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Fri, Jun 26, 2020, 14:31 Bill Coleman via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: I discovered that most of the filth in my engine room was coming from the V-Belts. So I swapped them out for serpentine belts. What an improvement. Bill Coleman From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Friday, June 26, 2020 12:42 PM To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting Bill, Thanks for letting me know how "excited" you are. In regards to the coupling there is what appears to be a predrilled partial hole. I imagine it might be for a set screw or lock screw. It does not extend through to the shaft. I'm not sure it is visible in any picture. Anybody have any thoughts on it's expected purpose. I'm going to call PYI (R&D Marine). I've considered the strip lighting for my own convenience. The epoxy paint would have to be Grey. Too much dirt getting thrown around the engine compartment to use white and have it get dirty. TBH, I'd rather be sailing. And paint doesn't make the boat sail better. Josh On Fri, Jun 26, 2020, 12:17 Bill Coleman via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Looks great. That transmission flange still gives me a woody. Now, If you are going to continue these instructional videos, and I think you should, I think you should Redd up the engine compartment, get some nice white epoxy going on in there, and some strip LED’s around the periphery. Bill Coleman From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 6:49 PM To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting I completed the shaft install today. I ended up cutting off about 2.5 inches of shaft log. Everything else went pretty well. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1FIKXswJLvlrxg3HOp2aJAqpqf-ib5i9g Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 09:02 Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat then please disregard. I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my C&C 37+. In the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft seal and strut bearing. The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard solid coupling. I had had a R&D Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned to reuse. The new seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's. The new coupling is a split coupling from R&D Marine. The new seal and coupling have added length which ultimately leaves only about 1.5 inches of free shaft at most. So here comes the question. First: Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft? I have 3. - getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to be separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the thickness of the coupling bolts. - getting the split coupling on could be complicated - with the shaft seal bottomed out on the log there is less articulation available in the seal tube. The seal uses a delrin bearing to center itself on the shaft but without room to flex the bearing will just ride harder on the shaft and can even overheat. Second: The seal engages with the shaft log by at least 4 inches. If I cut the log shorter, then I could push the seal deeper onto the log and get a bit more free shaft and room for the seal to articulate. Can any of you see any drawbacks or pitfalls to cutting the log short? Thanks, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD _______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray _______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray _______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
_______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray