Ignore the requests for a picture of a Foredeck Cow…

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From: Hans Reinhardt via CnC-List <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, February 3, 2021 4:22 PM
To: Stus-List <[email protected]>
Cc: Hans Reinhardt <[email protected]>
Subject: Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'

Hi All,
First post here so I imagine I will have fouled up somehow ... 😱
Hopefully I will continue to “contribute”, more meaningfully as time goes on.

The ceilings on my 1982 37 are teak battens (~ 1/4” x 2” + -ish) with beveled 
edges laminated to ~3/8“ plywood. Actual dimensions are fuzzy - the memory of 
.... 🙄 It’s been awhile.
Screwed and plugged. I can’t remember if there was some sort of hull 
spacer/vertical ribband. Newer boats ...?

As a retired landlubber construction professional I strongly urge people to 
explore existing structure thoroughly. Before somehow committing to plans and 
timetables based on hopeful thinking. As construction methods change and 
as-builts differ always see whatcha already got ... so just rip into it! 😳

Note on terminology: One of my brothers was a shipwright and foreman in the 
wooden boat mafia so I differentiated myself by refusing to learn all the 
arcane stuff. I’m a better sailor than he is ... but
what that says about my skills is debatable. 😉

Hans Reinhardt
S/V Ete’
1982 C&C 37
Shilshole Bay, Seattle

Sent from my iPhone


On Feb 2, 2021, at 12:13 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:

You might be correct--but I will know soon when I hopefully remove the bungs 
and get a closer look at this 'ceiling'.

Until then, my guess is that they are not separate battens but a sheet of 
teak/something with grooves routed in it to make it look like they are separate 
pieces.

The routed 'grooves' might also allow the single board (if it is indeed a 
single board!) to bend enough to fit the curves of the forward hull, both 
vertically and fore and aft.

They might be separate boards but I only see bungs at the top and bottom of 
their vertical 'run'.

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom


-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
To: Stus-List <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
Cc: Robert Boyer <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
Sent: Tue, Feb 2, 2021 1:49 pm
Subject: Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'
It seems to me that the teak battens were initially glued to a fabric backing 
with about 1/32” spacing between the battens to allow for the assembly to adapt 
to the curves of the boat (and probably humidity).

Bob
Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in warm places, and summers on the Chesapeake Bay)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>


On Feb 2, 2021, at 12:17 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:

Great idea on the plugs--I have found them but thought I'd probably have to 
drill them out entirely. That will certainly be my first try before I destroy 
anything further.

Unfortunately, the aft 6-18 inches of both the ceiling panel under the cubby 
and the panel 'inside' the cubby extending into a closed cabinet were totally 
destroyed by the water leak over the years I neglected it!

Thus Charles' suggestion will not work in my case since there are no 'remains' 
of the panel to save.

Regarding the bung removal, hopefully this will allow me to remove the 
partially destroyed panel. I haven't found a 'seam' yet so the panel may extend 
forward and be a single long panel--Murphy lurks!

Thanks for the suggestions,

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom

-----Original Message-----
From: Graham Collins via CnC-List 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
To: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
Cc: Graham Collins 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
Sent: Mon, Feb 1, 2021 9:21 pm
Subject: Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'
Hey Charlie, if it is like the panels on my boat you should be able to get the 
plugs out reasonably easily, I drilled a small hole in the center and screwed a 
wood screw in, it popped the plugs out and I could remove the screws and thus 
the panel.  I'd go with that before resorting to a power tool...
You could replicate it with thin battens but you'd want some sort of tongue on 
them so there weren't visible gaps where the gelcoat above shows through.  And 
don't press the battens tight together in case they expand with humidity...

Graham Collins

Secret Plans

C&C 35-III #11
On 2021-02-01 9:31 p.m., Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
Thanks all who have chimed in with thoughts on my 'ceiling' problem.

I spoke with Rob at South Shore today and he recalled that C&C sourced this 
material to a local shop who has since gone out of business.

My next, probably last hope, is Noah Boatworks in Ontario per one of the 
listers. They do have teak battens which may work although I 'think' the 
current stuff is a sheet of wood with grooves routed in it.

First, of course, I have to remove some of the good remaining ceiling to 
determine how thick it is and, more importantly, what it is. It might be teak, 
or teak faced plywood or just plywood stained to mimic teak. As with most boat 
projects, they start with at least 1, usually 2 or more steps backward before 
any forward progress is made--at least that is how it usually works for me!

Now it would only warm up in coastal NC (highs lately barely get out of the 
high 40s), I can begin the backward steps by probably investing in an 
oscillating tool so I can remove some of the ceiling without destroying it (1st 
step backward!). I may try a Dremel tool first--I have one of those somewhere.

Then I can either make a similar piece myself (of course I would likely need a 
router then!) or take the wood to a local shop and have it routed (2nd step 
backward).

Thanks again for the listers who helped with the terminology. I will let the 
list know what the solution turns out to be.

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom







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