Hmm.. You say that the buzz rework is only required by people who have the buzz problem. How do we tell the difference between the buzz problem and a badly tuned gsmhandset.state?
My situation is that when I talk to people on the FR I generally hear them very clearly, but they get a lot of static on their side - is that the buzz problem? Or is that something I can fix by tweaking the gsmhandset.state file? I'm using OM2009 TR4 btw - switching from the default alsa state file to http://www.kurppa.fi/freerunner/config_files/gsmhandset.state seemed to help the static, but it's still pretty bad... Warren On Mon, Jun 1, 2009 at 8:03 AM, Dr. H. Nikolaus Schaller <h...@computer.org>wrote: > > Am 01.06.2009 um 13:16 schrieb Paul Fertser: > > > "Dr. H. Nikolaus Schaller" <h...@computer.org> writes: > >>> and standby time jumping up 25% looks a lot to me. > >> > >> If you find a way to DIY to gain these 25%, please share with us. > > > > In fact overall time required for hand rework is roughly equal for > > both buzz and #1024 fixes. If one has already dismounted the can > > The key difference is the word "if already dismounted the can". > > > > > (quite easy if one is careful) then changing that particular capacitor > > is not a problem at all for a skilled person, it's SMT0805 size, big > > enough comparing to 0402 R and it's very conveniently located. > > > > This is for purely informational purposes for DIY-ers, i'm not > > recommending any distributors to offer this rework, quite the > > opposite. > > Thanks for this description which will help DIY-ers! > > Our reworker just opens the two torx screws, unclips the front cover > and then does the Buzz-Rework under a microscope. Then, the front > cover is clipped back and torx screws are replaced. This keeps rework > cost low even in a high-wage country like Germany (which is still more > than the 3 EUR we formally charge - Openmoko is sponsoring the rework). > > For opening the GSM shield you have to dismantle the whole PCB from > the Freerunner plastics and then open the can. Doing the reverse > direction means to put the power and aux buttons in place, make sure > that the vibramotor and speaker give contact etc. and everything > snaps back. This all sums to approx. 4 times as many minutes. That is > the time that adds up in our calculation. So if we find a way to apply > it without opening the can and dismantling the PCB, it will be the > same speed. > > So it is the simplicity of the buzz-rework that made us start this > adventure but more complex reworks are beyond our limits... > > > Aother note to all who read this: the Buzz rework is only required if > you have the Buzz problem. If your device does not, there is no need > to rework. My personal estimate is that <5% of users have experienced > it. > > And if you don't own a Freerunner yet, you don't necessarily have to > wait for A7 devices. So purchasing an A6 is still a good bet. > > Nikolaus > > _______________________________________________ > Openmoko community mailing list > community@lists.openmoko.org > http://lists.openmoko.org/mailman/listinfo/community > -- Warren Baird - Photographer and Digital Artist http://www.synergisticimages.ca
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