if you simply feel you must discharge it, yes, i recommend a well insulated, plastic handled (wood isn't a good hv insulator) screwdriver with a medium size blade, and a jumper clip large enough that you trust the clip to stay on the screwdriver and the chassis. gauge isn't really that important, there isn't much energy involved and it's a very brief pulse, probably most of the energy dissipation is in the arc. once it sparks you want to make sure and touch the metal of the connector cap with the screwdriver. of course, you want to attach the lead to the chassis first, and as i said if the screwdriver loses it's ground pull it away before the loose lead arcs to something. i've done this several times, it works very well, although there is some logic to using a resistor ideally, i've never heard of permanent, noticeable damage to the crt. it is a bit like throwing a steal pipe through the spokes of a spinning wheel to stop it, but the spark gap probably helps a little to reduce the peak current. it really helps if the blade is long before it gets to the handle, and if you think ahead a little. you want to gently push the screwdriver under the plastic cup, you'll likely hear a spark, keep going until you can tell it's touching the metal.
now the fun part... if you want to remove the big red wire (and i wouldn't unless i was replacing or cleaning something it connected to) you want to grip the plastic cup and bend it up into a "U" shape, then you should be able to see it connects with an inverted "V" shaped piece of metal that pokes into the tube, you move it to one side to unhook the opposite side, then move it back to remove the other side. installation is of course just the reverse. if you do pull the lead, you'd be wise to ground where it connects again briefly with the screwdriver when putting it back together. it is possible for some charge to return, it's stored in the glass and just takes a while to come back, probably not enough to hurt you, just enough to scare the heck out of you. the utility companies use hv caps to help correct power factors on their transmission lines, when they aren't in use, the terminals are always shorted together because of this slow recharge phenomenon. hv is interesting. dan_A wrote: ---------- > Philip, am I right in understanding that what you are saying is, just > use a screwdriver, with well insulated handle, alligator clip, wire, > alligator clip to ground lug on SE/30. No resistor. What gage wire is > safe or is it just insulation thickness that counts? Forgive my lack > of electrical knowledge. --------- -- "Security is mostly a superstition. It does not exist in nature, nor do the children of men as a whole experience it. Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure. Life is either a daring adventure, or nothing." - Helen Keller, American Blind/Deaf Author & Lecturer... -- Compact Macs is sponsored by <http://lowendmac.com/>. Support Low End Mac <http://lowendmac.com/lists/support.html> Compact Macs list info: <http://lowendmac.com/lists/compact.shtml> The FAQ: <http://macfaq.org/> --> AOL users, remove "mailto:"; Send list messages to: <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To unsubscribe, email: <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> For digest mode, email: <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subscription questions: <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Archive:<http://www.mail-archive.com/compact.macs%40mail.maclaunch.com/> Using a Mac? Free email & more at Applelinks! http://www.applelinks.com
