>...ou may have to remove it, but that doesn't require >soldering. if you are going to jumper it, you can just use a fresh >single edge (not the kind that have 2 sharp edges and WILL take your >fingers with them) and slice the leads where they go into the package, >then you can pull the part out leaving the pins. this would at least >let you tell if that's really the problem or not. can you tell me the >designation on the circuit board (i.e. f1, f2, or whatever they are >calling those?) then i can look it up on the schematic. >
-- Hi Philip-thanks for your idea- Larry Pina's "Mac Classic & SE Repair and Upgrade..." book says the location of the problem item on the logic board for the SE/30 is RP2. He doesn't clearly indicate where this is in his illustration. This logic board was the newest one produced out of the 5 that were made for the machine. I would need a "map" unless the schematic is also positionally (is that a word?) accurate. Just so I cut the right piece out. I'm glad that I don't have to solder because the soldering iron I once bought, while having a gazillion watts, is large and heavy and could reconnect the steel girders on the George Washington Bridge. I'd love to try your idea, so let me know what tooth I have to remove. dan_A -- Compact Macs is sponsored by <http://lowendmac.com/>. Support Low End Mac <http://lowendmac.com/lists/support.html> Compact Macs list info: <http://lowendmac.com/lists/compact.shtml> The FAQ: <http://macfaq.org/> --> AOL users, remove "mailto:"; Send list messages to: <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To unsubscribe, email: <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> For digest mode, email: <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subscription questions: <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Archive:<http://www.mail-archive.com/compact.macs%40mail.maclaunch.com/> Using a Mac? Free email & more at Applelinks! http://www.applelinks.com
