ah, that may be a pull-up resistor network, but a similar fix should
work.  i'll look it up on the schematic.  the "RP2" designation should
be printed on the board, you just have to find it.  i'll try and let you
know what to do by tomorrow, you will need a smaller soldering iron of
course, something more like 25-30W with a reasonably small tip, a radio
shack cheapy would do nicely, or you can probably grab one at a pawn
shop for a dollar or two if you can't borrow one (and preferably a
skilled hand with it).  fortunately, that machine is old tech, the pins
are on .1" centers and easy to solder, the ones that are 40 to the inch
are another story, it can be done, but not with radio shack gear (unless
you're truly a soldering god), i've done it with slightly better irons,
but it's not something i enjoy!

dan_A wrote:
-----
 --
> Hi Philip-thanks for your idea-
> 
> Larry Pina's "Mac Classic & SE Repair and Upgrade..." book says the
> location of the problem item on the logic board for the SE/30 is RP2.
> He doesn't clearly indicate where this is in his illustration. This
> logic board was the newest one produced out of the 5 that were made
> for the machine. I would need a "map" unless the schematic is also
> positionally (is that a word?) accurate. Just so I cut the right
> piece out. I'm glad that I don't have to solder because the soldering
> iron I once bought, while having a gazillion watts, is large and
> heavy and could reconnect the steel girders on the George Washington
> Bridge. I'd love to try your idea, so let me know what tooth I have
> to remove.
---------

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they strike you down, you will remember: humanity is not our enemy.  The
only thing worthy of you is compassion...Hatred will never let you face
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your courage intact, your eyes kind...out of your smile will bloom a
flower.  and...on the long, rough road, the sun and the moon will
continue to shine."  Thich Nhat Hanh, Buddhist monk

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