I just would like to add one thing. When changing or bleeding the brake fluids, using a hand vaccuum pump makes the job really easy - making it a one man job and it may make it easier on your master cylinder.
Ken 90si At 08:58 AM 6/25/02 -0700, you wrote: >On 10:50 PM 06/24/02 -0700, Kristian Hoffmann said... > >>Look into getting the spring kit for the rear drums. There are 4-5 >>springs per side that can snap if they're really old. Make sure you have >>a good set of needle nose plyers and a shop manual. Besides that, do one >>side at a time. There are a lot of little pieces that just fall out when >>you unload the springs and guessing where they go is no fun at all. >> >>-Kristian >> >>On Mon, 24 Jun 2002 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >> >> > im no mech....so here it goes....i bought the shoes but nothing >> more....i was >> > planning on buying some brake fluid, bleeding the brakes and replacing the >> > fluid...but besides that im in the dark....anything else i NEED to get >> while >> > im doing this???? >> > >> > thanks ronnie >> > 88 si >> > > > >Kristian makes a very good recommendation. Whenever I did a "brake job" >on my past cars, I would also get the "rebuild" kit which was basically >the items that Kristian listed. There's also a drum brake tool which is >suppose to help with pulling the springs but I found that using basic >leverage with a flat blade screw driver works just as well. There has >been times where I've had to use both a flat blade and a pair of pliers to >pull a spring just a quarter inch. :^P > >I've never done a CRX rear drum brake before but I can't see it being all >that exotic from some of the past cars I've done. I don't recall if yours >has the adjusting star (on our Audi 4000, it was self adjusting which was >really sweet ~ drive forward a few feet, depress the brakes lightly, drive >backwards and depress the brakes lightly and repeat this about three times >and increase the braking pressure each time and you're done...). If you >do have an adjusting star (or something similar) be sure to adjust it as >per the service manual. > >Another area to look into replacing would be the brake cylinders. These >are little pistons which actually move the shoes outwards towards to drum >surface. If there are any signs of leakage or if they are not operating >properly (i.e.: Not extending out far enough, sticking or not retracting >back) then replace them at this point. I don't know what they normally >sell for but I can't image they're all that much, $25 (USD) or so would be >my guess. > >I would also check the condition of your rear brake lines. If they look >worn, replace them now. Again, if you can swing the cost of stainless >steel lines, go for it. However, since it's the rears, it's probably >won't provide that much added braking performance other than it's overall >longevity (and they look cool too...). Now, I have been told by other >Honda CRX owners (with stock rear drums) who have upgraded their rear >lines to the stainless steel ones who have said that they did feel a more >positive feel at the pedal. > >And as for the replacing of the fluid... if you're thinking about doing a >flush of the system and refilling it, this can be a major chore and if you >don't do it properly you can damage your master cylinder via the >plunger. It can also be a very LONG process. The best way to get the old >fluid out of the system is to *blow* it out using an air compressor. But >you have be careful when doing so. Most air compressors have oil in them >(to keep the tools and attachments from rusting) and you DON'T want that >in your brake lines! Some air compressors will cool the lines and water >condensation can occur inside the line ~ again, something you DON'T want >in your brake lines. You can use the master cylinder to pump the fluid >out it won't be able to pump it all out (and you run the risk of damaging >the master cylinder). > >My advice, if you still want to flush the system, is to pay your local >brake shoppe. FWIW, I do (and have done) this with ALL of my cars. I do >this every two years (the same time I do the coolant flush and >re-fill). My local brake shoppe charges me a modest fee of $50 (USD) to >perform this service. > > >Robert K. Kuhn >CRX Owners Group President (http://www.crx.org/southcal) > >1990 Honda CRXsi (http://drive.to/jiggy) >ICQ # 3714283 (nickname: godzilla)
