Hi George, The vacuum pump I use is one from MightyVac2 or something like that. I think you can get them from any auto parts store and they are not that expensive. I would prefer to get a better one with a metal pump handles because they would be more durable. The one I got has plastic handles.
A suggestion: Make sure you get one with a pressure gauge on it so that you can see how much pressure you are getting into the pump and this is especially handy when you release the brake bleed valve. Just by looking at the gauge needle you know when you have to close the bleeding valve so that no air gets back into the brake lines. A really handy tool. Ken At 02:46 PM 25/06/2002 -0400, you wrote: >Any suggested brands or types? > >-----Original Message----- >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On >Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 2:27 PM >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: Re: CRX: changing rear drum brake shoes tomoorrow > > >I just would like to add one thing. When changing or bleeding the brake >fluids, using a hand vaccuum pump makes the job really easy - making it a >one man job and it may make it easier on your master cylinder. > >Ken >90si > > >At 08:58 AM 6/25/02 -0700, you wrote: > >On 10:50 PM 06/24/02 -0700, Kristian Hoffmann said... > > > >>Look into getting the spring kit for the rear drums. There are 4-5 > >>springs per side that can snap if they're really old. Make sure you have > >>a good set of needle nose plyers and a shop manual. Besides that, do one > >>side at a time. There are a lot of little pieces that just fall out when > >>you unload the springs and guessing where they go is no fun at all. > >> > >>-Kristian > >> > >>On Mon, 24 Jun 2002 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > >> > >> > im no mech....so here it goes....i bought the shoes but nothing > >> more....i was > >> > planning on buying some brake fluid, bleeding the brakes and replacing >the > >> > fluid...but besides that im in the dark....anything else i NEED to get > >> while > >> > im doing this???? > >> > > >> > thanks ronnie > >> > 88 si > >> > > > > > > >Kristian makes a very good recommendation. Whenever I did a "brake job" > >on my past cars, I would also get the "rebuild" kit which was basically > >the items that Kristian listed. There's also a drum brake tool which is > >suppose to help with pulling the springs but I found that using basic > >leverage with a flat blade screw driver works just as well. There has > >been times where I've had to use both a flat blade and a pair of pliers to > >pull a spring just a quarter inch. :^P > > > >I've never done a CRX rear drum brake before but I can't see it being all > >that exotic from some of the past cars I've done. I don't recall if yours > >has the adjusting star (on our Audi 4000, it was self adjusting which was > >really sweet ~ drive forward a few feet, depress the brakes lightly, drive > >backwards and depress the brakes lightly and repeat this about three times > >and increase the braking pressure each time and you're done...). If you > >do have an adjusting star (or something similar) be sure to adjust it as > >per the service manual. > > > >Another area to look into replacing would be the brake cylinders. These > >are little pistons which actually move the shoes outwards towards to drum > >surface. If there are any signs of leakage or if they are not operating > >properly (i.e.: Not extending out far enough, sticking or not retracting > >back) then replace them at this point. I don't know what they normally > >sell for but I can't image they're all that much, $25 (USD) or so would be > >my guess. > > > >I would also check the condition of your rear brake lines. If they look > >worn, replace them now. Again, if you can swing the cost of stainless > >steel lines, go for it. However, since it's the rears, it's probably > >won't provide that much added braking performance other than it's overall > >longevity (and they look cool too...). Now, I have been told by other > >Honda CRX owners (with stock rear drums) who have upgraded their rear > >lines to the stainless steel ones who have said that they did feel a more > >positive feel at the pedal. > > > >And as for the replacing of the fluid... if you're thinking about doing a > >flush of the system and refilling it, this can be a major chore and if you > >don't do it properly you can damage your master cylinder via the > >plunger. It can also be a very LONG process. The best way to get the old > >fluid out of the system is to *blow* it out using an air compressor. But > >you have be careful when doing so. Most air compressors have oil in them > >(to keep the tools and attachments from rusting) and you DON'T want that > >in your brake lines! Some air compressors will cool the lines and water > >condensation can occur inside the line ~ again, something you DON'T want > >in your brake lines. You can use the master cylinder to pump the fluid > >out it won't be able to pump it all out (and you run the risk of damaging > >the master cylinder). > > > >My advice, if you still want to flush the system, is to pay your local > >brake shoppe. FWIW, I do (and have done) this with ALL of my cars. I do > >this every two years (the same time I do the coolant flush and > >re-fill). My local brake shoppe charges me a modest fee of $50 (USD) to > >perform this service. > > > > > >Robert K. Kuhn > >CRX Owners Group President (http://www.crx.org/southcal) > > > >1990 Honda CRXsi (http://drive.to/jiggy) > >ICQ # 3714283 (nickname: godzilla)
