Hi Mark,
yes the car is very drivable its been mydaily driver for 3 months of this.
Now the valve cover was off so that they could drill out the bolt. They
screwed up the drilling. Put the valver cover back on and told me they
couldnt fix it. So i got screwed.When i found this out i immediately called
this motor shop. He said he only wants the head. he dosent want the whole
car.he has to do the work on a bench he claims. he would even come pick up
the head at my house. After i take it off. I replaced the timing 5000 km's
ago so i think i can reuse it. how much would a rebuild be?
Thanks Again
J.R. '89 CRX Si (D16Z6)
>From: "Mark Humphreys" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: "Mark Humphreys" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Re: CRX: Head Removal
>Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 14:49:03 -0400
>
>Joey, First off, why does the mechaninc want you to remove the entire
>head??? Thats a lot of work [as detailed below], and I think that $150.oo
>is
>a bit high for the labour, you might want to shop around a bit first. Is
>the
>car driveable at the moment? Pleade reiterate: why did you have the valve
>cover off?
>
>Heres my version of the instructions just to give you the jist of the work
>required/suggested:
>First off, you will want to set your timing to TDC [remove upper timing
>belt
>cover, and use a 17mm socket to turn the crank pulley, until it's mark,
>lines up with the mark on the lower belt cover. There are to marks on the
>crank pulley which you will want to be horizontal, with one other mark that
>is at a 45degree angle facing up] Once that is done remove the dreaded
>crank
>pulley, then the timing belt. then remove the intake manifold [12mm nuts]
>and all of the associated plugs and hoses. Then remove the valve cover, and
>remove the 14[or is it 16]mm head studs. You will want to replace the
>timing
>belt water pump, head gasket, intake manifold gasket,exhaust manifold
>gasket, and head studs. You also need to pull the exhaust manifold [do this
>at the same time as removing the intake manifold]
>
>I think that there is a specific order to remove the head studs-consult a
>manual for that order, to prevent warping the head.
>
>While the head is off, you might want to consider having the valve seats
>freshened up, and any other head work [ie: port/polish, milling the head,
>lightweight valves, aftermarket cam, etc...]
>
>Putting the head back on is in my opinion simpler than taking it off. You
>will want to however scrape all the old head gasket off the deck, and head,
>and clean as much carbon off the pistons as possible. If your rings are
>iffy, you had might as well go for an entire rebuild if you're going that
>far, or just have the stud machined out.
>Hope that this helped!
>-M
>>From: "Joey R." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>Reply-To: "Joey R." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>Subject: CRX: Head Removal
>>Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 14:19:31 -0400
>>
>>Hey guys,
>>
>>I had a broken valve cover bolt that was suposed to be drilled out but the
>>guy doing it screwed up and drilled the hole a little on the side. so now
>>i
>>have to have my head filled, planed and redrilled.
>>I need to bring it to an engine shop. The guy told me i have to bring him
>>the head only. How complicated is it to remove with hand tools? I have a
>>haynes manual for the CRX, but my engine is a D16Z6. Is the head removal
>>much different? is it something that you would suggest me doing without
>>much prior mechanical experience. He told me it would cost about 150$ to
>>fix which is reasonable but how much other things would i need to change?
>>I
>>need help.
>>
>>if sumone would like to speak to me privately my MSN is
>>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>>TIA
>>
>>J.R. '89 CRX Si D16Z6
>>
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Yes...there are stupid questions......stupid people ask them.... =)
Straights are for fast cars... curves are for fast drivers
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