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And you're doing custom body mods on
the car, right? If it must be primered, at least use a quality primer from an
auto paint supply rather than from a rattle can (not knowing what you used I'm
just making a general statement.) Most rattle can primer will absorb water,
holding it against the sheet metal of the car. Hell, even some quality primers
will do the same because they're meant to be sprayed under the paint. The only
bad thing about using a sealer/primer is that it's not a good surface for a
quality paint job and will have to be sanded-off before painting. Of course,
after driving a car in primer long enough, it should all be sanded-off before
painting anyway.
Finally, I've found that molded door
handles can never be made to be completely fool-proof. Because you're pulling on
that handle to open the door, you are stressing the material used to mold it in,
resulting in cracks. You're taking a step in the right direction by shaving them
all together - just remember to spot-weld the full plate every
inch-and-a-half, moving around the plate until you have a full seam (and
allowing enough cooling time to prevent warping.) Don't ever leave space between
spot-welds or you will have cracking of your body filler (it happened on our
truck!)
Primer is still whack on cars that
don't need it, but yours obviously doesn't fall into that category!
Brian
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- CRX: Primer... Jeremy Bass
- Re: CRX: Re: Primer... Brian-SubCultureNM
- Re: CRX: Re: Primer... Henry Bonath
- Re: CRX: Re: Primer... Brian-SubCultureNM
- Re: CRX: Re: Primer... Robert K. Kuhn
