Ok, now I'm inspired by this spot welding thing... and am going off topic (kinda) I used to live in the north (ohio) and that's where my CRX is from So I've got the rusty rear 1/4 panels.
I was originally planning to hit it up with the bondo, but since my purchase of a MIG welder, I've considered welding in new metal. You mentioned spot welding and I'd like to learn more information on how this is done. I'm a complete newbie to welding in general but I know that welding in new metal is always the way to go over bondo. now for my questions: The welder I have is a Lincoln Electric "HANDY MIG" it does .025" solid MIG wire with Gas shielding. would that be good for doing this sort of thing? now how would it be done, I'm assuming that "spot welding" is just zapping a little spot until it sticks, and slowly moving around until it's all covered up. I don't want to come across as an idiot, but I really am very new to welding... but not new to CRXes =D Thanks! (and I'm sorry if I stole anyones topic) -Henry On Thu, 2003-01-30 at 15:29, Brian-SubCultureNM wrote: > And you're doing custom body mods on the car, right? If it must be primered, at >least use a quality primer from an auto paint supply rather than from a rattle can >(not knowing what you used I'm just making a general statement.) Most rattle can >primer will absorb water, holding it against the sheet metal of the car. Hell, even >some quality primers will do the same because they're meant to be sprayed under the >paint. The only bad thing about using a sealer/primer is that it's not a good surface >for a quality paint job and will have to be sanded-off before painting. Of course, >after driving a car in primer long enough, it should all be sanded-off before >painting anyway. > > Finally, I've found that molded door handles can never be made to be completely >fool-proof. Because you're pulling on that handle to open the door, you are stressing >the material used to mold it in, resulting in cracks. You're taking a step in the >right direction by shaving them all together - just remember to spot-weld the full >plate every inch-and-a-half, moving around the plate until you have a full seam (and >allowing enough cooling time to prevent warping.) Don't ever leave space between >spot-welds or you will have cracking of your body filler (it happened on our truck!) > > Primer is still whack on cars that don't need it, but yours obviously doesn't fall >into that category! > > Brian > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Jeremy Bass > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2003 11:58 AM > Subject: CRX: Primer... > > > "Finally - no primer unless you're doing custom body mods!! Primer is whack on a >car that has a stock body!" > > Custom body mods?? I had to rebuild several areas on the body because of massive >rust. I've shaved the antenna, rear wiper, windshield squirters, side mouldings, and >molded-in the door handles. (soon to be completely shaved). I'm not done with >repairs and still have severaly small dings to fill in, which is why I shot it with >primer. Fix a ding, re-primer.. This is my daily driver! better all one color than >patches of everything... Besides, I'm no rich boy. >
