And you're doing custom body mods on the car, right? If it must be primered, at least use a quality primer from an auto paint supply rather than from a rattle can (not knowing what you used I'm just making a general statement.) Most rattle can primer will absorb water, holding it against the sheet metal of the car. Hell, even some quality primers will do the same because they're meant to be sprayed under the paint. The only bad thing about using a sealer/primer is that it's not a good surface for a quality paint job and will have to be sanded-off before painting. Of course, after driving a car in primer long enough, it should all be sanded-off before painting anyway.
Finally, I've found that molded door handles can never be made to be completely fool-proof. Because you're pulling on that handle to open the door, you are stressing the material used to mold it in, resulting in cracks. You're taking a step in the right direction by shaving them all together - just remember to spot-weld the full plate every inch-and-a-half, moving around the plate until you have a full seam (and allowing enough cooling time to prevent warping.) Don't ever leave space between spot-welds or you will have cracking of your body filler (it happened on our truck!)
Primer is still whack on cars that don't need it, but yours obviously doesn't fall into that category!
Brian
- ----- Original Message -----
- From: Jeremy Bass
- To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
- Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2003 11:58 AM
- Subject: CRX: Primer...
- "Finally - no primer unless you're doing custom body mods!! Primer is whack on a car that has a stock body!"
- Custom body mods?? I had to rebuild several areas on the body because of massive rust. I've shaved the antenna, rear wiper, windshield squirters, side mouldings, and molded-in the door handles. (soon to be completely shaved). I'm not done with repairs and still have severaly small dings to fill in, which is why I shot it with primer. Fix a ding, re-primer.. This is my daily driver! better all one color than patches of everything... Besides, I'm no rich boy.
(* snip *)
I have some arguments about the statement about using primer from an auto paint supply shoppe. While I agree with the use of quality paint when it comes to body work (regardless if it can be seen or not), generally speaking, when you use primer, it's not meant to be used long term.
However... since most (if not all of us) of us are on a budget, primer being used for long term is unavoidable.
When I did my body kit, I used primer from the local Kragen. Went out and got a few cans. It would be about 5 days later before it made it's way into the paint booth where it was sanded and then primer was applied again. While 5 days really isn't considered "long term" I did use "clear" to help seal it from moisture (even though when I did the kit, it was in May/June where it's pretty dry here in San Diego).
When I was younger (way back in the mid-80s), my cars all sported the primer paint scheme (sometimes multi-colored primer; grey, black red primer). Some of them never made it to the paint booth but most eventually did (3+ months later). Hence the "hooligan look" was coined...
My point is, I guess, is that even if you plan to re-paint the car eventually, just primer the areas that work was done and if it turns out to be along term thing, use a sealant of some sort. So the car may sport some spots and patches of primer but "So what?!", IMHO. When it comes time to take it to the paint shoppe, they're going to have to address and prep those area again before they shoot the paint on.
There's nothing wrong with using quality primer and paint but just be prepared to spend the extra. My feeling has always been to "purchase what you can afford".
These are just my ramblings.... Other's will most likely disagree... :^)
CRX Owners Group President (http://www.crx.org/southcal)
1990 Honda CRXsi (http://www.hooligan.cc)
ICQ # 3714283 (nickname: godzilla)
Alpine Drive (San Diego County) - February 8, 2003
http://www.crx.org/southcal/events.html
