Thanks for your answers.
I know ti is a very difficult task and I
know I'm not going to master it at all, but I'd like to get a bit closer
to understanding the right way to do it and, maybe, be able to apply a
better workflow.
I'll try to find Ben Goren threads: I'm sure thy will
be of interest.
> 1)Beg/borrow/steal a monitor calibration device and
generate a profile
> from this. Then make sure your operating system
and/or photo processing
> software is using that profile. Note that for
your specific requirement
> of reproducing the drawings you will want to
use specific and controlled
> lighting when you do this and use the same
lighting when photographing
> the drawings.
I have my monitor
calibrated and my gnome desktop is using the profile I created. I use DT
and assume it works with the same profile. I thought that the gray card
would be enough to neutralise the colour casts. The pictures were taken
under an even tungsten lighting (I mean no other source of light). In
the processing, I tried to set the exposition setting the RGB levels to
127,127,127, which now I've read is not correct (it's better to set the
L* value to 50 instead and the white in the card to 90). But the image
was way too bright!
I'm not sure I understand what you say here, Rob:
"Note that for your specific requirement
of reproducing the drawings
you will want to use specific and controlled
lighting when you do this
and use the same lighting when photographing
the drawings"
> 2)Get an
accurate printer profile made for the specific
> printer/paper/ink
combination you are going to use for printing the
> drawings. Or send
them off to a good printer who supports colour
> profiled work.
I have
to say the printing issue is my last problem (I mean I have to try to
manage the production of a proper file first). The printings have been
made by a professional printer but I haven't asked for a profile or
information on the matter. I have to do it as soon as the image in my
monitor is close to reality. the next part ould be how to tweak the soft
proofing
After you have done this you can photograph the drawings and
do whatever
you want in dt (or someth> e as close as possible to what
you get on the final print.
>
> That's the point were I wanted to get.
I supposed that, given a margin of (acceptable) error, there would be
setting in DT that introduced little or no change in the hue or
saturation of the imag
lar, those to do with the input and output
profiles (for example, the linear rgb instead of the enhanced color
matrix, or the convenience of activating or not the base curve...)
I
know it is a difficult task, but between nothing (0%) and perfect (100%)
every little step of improvement will be worth the
effort.
regards
Marcial
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