fl_ipp wrote:

> Ok well ill try that. is there a way you can tell me how to do it or 
> where it is located so i may do it? Thanks 

I think it's time for you to invest in a repair manual if you intend to 
service your car beyond oil changes, etc.  It's not necessary to get the 
factory manual, which costs about $80 from Chrysler's vendor (though it 
sometimes shows up on EBay for less).  The Chilton manual for the 93-97 
Chrysler LH cars is available in many auto parts stores for about $25, 
and has the same EGR test procedure as the factory manual.  It is also 
better written for most home tinkerers; the factory manuals assume prior 
knowledge of fixing cars and some of the lingo/jargon may be unfamiliar 
if you don't have prior experience.

Part of the procedure involves using their scan tool, which you aren't 
going to want to buy (I don't, either!), but the test of the mechanical 
function of the EGR valve involves applying vacuum with an inexpensive 
hand pump.  To tell the truth, I will often rough-check EGR valves by 
disconnecting and plugging the small rubber hose from the control 
solenoid to the valve; then putting on another one, long enough to reach 
outside the engine compartment, and applying vacuum on that long hose 
while the engine is idling; if the valve is working freely and is not 
plugged, the idle speed will change, and you can be almost completely 
assured that the valve is physically OK.

To tell the truth, I often just suck on the end of the hose to apply 
vacuum...but that's not considered good practice.  The EGR valves I have 
encountered will not leak manifold gas into that hose if the diaphragm 
is leaky, but I haven't seen all of them.

I think you say you have a 3.5L engine; sometimes, poor running on those 
can be caused by a leaky intake manifold gasket. But since you have the 
"32" code, check the EGR first.

Good luck.

-GP


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