A good engine oil will come out black during an oil change. That black stuff is inpurities that naturally builds up inside the crankcase. Yes, these impurities include oil that has burned. It is the oil's job to clean up after itself.
In time, the oil becomes saturated with these impurities and it is like washing dirt off your kitchen floor with muddy water. It doesn't work so well. So, when it dries, it looks like you haven't done anything. Hence the reason you change the water in your mop bucket every so often. And, using certain cheap oils will be like washing your floor with no soap. It'll wash away the loose stuff, but the stains won't go away. Or, it is like trying to wash dishes using laundry soap. Years ago, when I was poorer than I am today, I used liquid Tide to try it because it was the only thing I had. Well, heh! The results aren't so great. Try it, and you will see what I mean. Better than nothing, but I probably wouldn't eat off of the results. If the oil doesn't turn dark, it can mean any or all of these things: 1.) its already clean in there. Best to keep it that way. 2.)The piston rings are doing a phenomenal job sealing the combustion gasses in. 3.) the oil is doing a good job and isn't burning up in the engine. 4.) The oil isn't doing its job of cleaning, so it doesn't get dirty. 5.) The driving habits. And, for those who think its just the chysler 2.7 that is sludging up, take a walk through the junk yards. Probably 50% of the engines out there have their valve covers removed and you will see engines that look like someone poured tar into them. You'll find this happening with a car made by any auto manufacturer. You can't distinguish the rocker arm from the valve spring below it because of the grime. Sludging definitely doesn't help anything, but I really still do not believe it is the root cause these bearing failures. Go to jiffy lube for your oil changes? If so, I'd recommend going to Walmart to get the $1.60/quart 10w30 valvoline and tell them to use that rather than what only god knows what they use. Have a failed 2.7? Lets see an oil analysis. Lets take it apart and find out WHY it happened. Is that water pump REALLY leaking? Lets de-bunk the myth that the oil passages are too small because they are not; they're as big as any other engine out there. For all we know, there is some kind of ionization going on between the crankshaft and the rod bearings, causing them to naturally deteriorate. Prolonged detonation can cause bearing failure, also. What about the possibility of an internal crack in the engine allowing coolant into the oil that way??? If we can get some proof to present to Chrysler as to why its happening, we might stand a chance in getting them to replace some engines. Right now, people blame failures on: 1.) Oil supply passages too small (I disagree) 2.) Coolant leaking into the oil via the water pump (By design, this SHOULDN'T be possible--not without first killing the pump's own bearings) 3.) Defective PCV system. Okay, what makes it so defective? 4.) Oil return passages too small so the engine starves for oil at high RPM. This is definitely not true. 5.) Sludge pluggin up oil passages. I gave my lecture on this above. Sludge will dissolve in good clean engine oil. 6.) Water pump gasket leaking (well, pressure test the cooling system and SHOW me the leak!) 7.) They run too hot. Well, the 3.2 and 3.5 run the same and they have no problems. Its just bugging me. WHY do the fail this often? __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Web: <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dodge_intrepid> Subscribe: <mailto://[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Unsubscribe: <mailto://[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Moderator: <mailto://[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dodge_intrepid/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
