Thank you Ian. This gives us an idea of what to expect when we open the floor . We will document what we find and do for future reference. Kurt
On Wed, Nov 6, 2019 at 12:28 AM Ian Williams <[email protected]> wrote: > Hi Kurt, > > I hope I can be some help to you. There are others who (I hope) will > comment. > > I have a H36 S/No 3537 .. one of 10 built for the Royal Thai Air Force in > the early 80’s It has been fully restored and I have almost finished the > 500 hr inspection. > > HOWEVER (yep I have rocks in my head) purchased 2 H36’s from Australia > .. S/no 3534 (VH-GNW) and S/no 3507 (VH-WVW) > > 3534 also had a landing accident removing the Undercarrage completely and > 3507 was written off … it was blown upside down in a storm. But OK for > parts (engine, UC , Instruments Prop and centre section all basically OK. > > However 3534 is repairable. > > The repair is a major one hence needs to be approved by the factory (in > this case Diamond in Austria). The maintenance manual clearly defines the > cross over point. > > The Diamond engineers are really good and respond to questions asked. > > We are putting together a proposed “repair scheme” shortly and sending it > to Diamond for hopefully their approval. Basically to use the “good “ > centre section / UC attach from 3507 grafted on to 3534. > > > > So that is the background. > > I will include some real ugly pictures of the damaged areas of 3534 which > I think should help you sort out your machine. > > Image 2108 (002) … shows the UC attach bracket , rod ends and the > embedded rod (which of course has been torn out of the Fuse. Note how > the rovings are wrapped around to rod. (it is supposed to be straight) > > Image 2109 is a better view of the rovings wrapped around the rod. > > Image 2107 .. shows how the rovings are attached to the centre section to > transfer the loads into the Fuse structure. > > IMAGE 2105 another view of how and where the rovings are applied. > > > > With the last image, note there is an oblong cut out in front of where the > rod end should stick out …. This is we think was a modification done in > Thailand … to get access to the rod ends. It should NOT have been done as > it has actually damaged some of the rovings transferring to landing > loads. In fact I think they had some contribution to the damage 3534 > sustained as it would have weakened the structure significantly (we > think) > > (the Fuse is of course upside down) > > Note that just in front of where the rod end should be … and looking > through the hole, you can see a patch of much newer looking fiberglass …. > That is where a hole was made in the inner skin to access the front rod end > and where you should make one. Note there is no rovings at that point on > the inner skin. > > If you can get the drawings of that area, I found they were a bit tricky > to understand but looking at the damage (ie the pictures) all fell into > place. > > The front set of rovings are attached to the outer skin and towards the > centre … you can see them (the busted ones on the right.) > > However the rear rovings are attached to a triangular bulkhead running for > and aft (ie underneath your knees) just above the attach rod. > > > > So it is quite an interesting design. > > > > In your case, I guess you will need to find out the extent of the damage … > drilling a hole to see the front attach point should work… once exposed > check for any white stress fractures. It may be that the bolt holding > the rod end has broken off. If your luck holds, that may be the only > damage, so some fancy engineering work to remove the broken off bit and > replaced along with a new rod end. Note that the rod end and bolt need to > be hi tensile (the rod end has an X on the end of the thread.). I would > suggest that you access the rod ends from the inside, not the outside as > that whole area is very structural. > > > > My experience is that some of the engineering work on the ex thai H-36’s > has not been that good. > > > > If I can be of any further help, please ask. There are others down this > way who are real experts, and I hope they will make some comment as well > > > > Best regards > > Ian Williams > > New Zealand > > > > > > > > *From:* [email protected] *On Behalf Of *Kurt Redinbaugh > *Sent:* Wednesday, 6 November 2019 9:56 a.m. > *To:* [email protected] > *Subject:* [DOG mailing list] Three Questions > > > > > > I have H-36 #3660 here in Northern Nevada. I have three questions for the > DOG: > > > > !. Is it humanly possible to install the starboard air cleaner without > dropping the engine? > > I have big hands but cannot figure how to position the air cleaner so it > will pass around the electric wiring and control linkages in order to seat > on the carb. > > > > 2. The starboard forward bolt that holds the landing gear strap turns when > I try to tighten the retaining nut. I have a set of the specified eye bolts > and am asking if there are any video or pictures or other instructions for > what to find when we cut into the floor boards. I am replacing the landing > gear bow as the result of an accident in which the starboard wheel > literally was broken off the bow. In the process the starboard forward bolt > was torn loose inside the fuselage. > > > > 3. All the auto gas in the area has 10% ethanol added, including premium > grade. Thus I'm asking if auto gas is okay to use or do I limit myself to > !00LL avgas? I gapped the spark plugs at 0.4mm and this narrow gap seems > likely to foul with lead. > > Many thanks for your help > > Kurt Redinbaugh > > Dimona 3660 N13EB > > 1-26B #298 N2776Z > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > You are subscribed to the Dimona Owners Group mailing list. > To unsubscribe, send email to: [email protected]
