It should be OK. - Measure the crankshaft run out with a dial guage at the prop hub. - With the spark plugs removed make sure to crankshaft turns *completely * smoothly
Please Please Please...always follow the engine manual instructions! https://drive.google.com/file/d/1V88KR4gqMZpCvoo9qIFcAa4tk3D15nT1/view?usp=sharing [image: runout-Gauging.jpg] regards Rob Rob Thompson 0429 493 828 On Sun, Oct 18, 2020 at 7:33 AM Jarek Steliga <[email protected]> wrote: > Rob, > > And so much for my happiness then. The milk is spilt and all that is left > for me to do now is to hope for the best. > Thank you for your advice. At least I will avoid repeating the mistake in > the future. > > > Best regards > Jarek > > > > On Sat, 17 Oct 2020 at 00:12, Rob Thompson <[email protected]> > wrote: > >> Jarek.... >> You have put an enormous load force on the crankshaft! >> You *must* lock the flywheel (cogwheel)* NOT *the propellor hub. >> You can damage the crankshaft the way you have done it. >> >> Rob >> >> Rob Thompson >> 0429 493 828 >> >> >> >> On Sat, Oct 17, 2020 at 7:34 AM Jarek Steliga <[email protected]> >> wrote: >> >>> Hello, >>> >>> I am so happy! The bolt is off! It took about 40 kG of push on a well >>> above 1 m long lever, which is close to 400 Nm I believe. I bolted a steel >>> tube to the propeller hub to immobilize the crankshaft. >>> >>> Again thank you all for the words of encouragement. The former owner of >>> my Dimona clearly did not feel equal to the task and just used some >>> make-shift arrangement to channel away the leaking engine oil. >>> >>> >>> Best regards >>> Jarek Steliga >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> On Fri, 16 Oct 2020 at 10:00, Jarek Steliga <[email protected]> >>> wrote: >>> >>>> Hello, >>>> >>>> As always thank you so much. >>>> >>>> Regards >>>> Jarek >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> On Fri, 16 Oct 2020 at 09:43, Ric <[email protected]> wrote: >>>> >>>>> Hi Jarek. >>>>> >>>>> I would recommend using a single hex socket if you can. I built a tool >>>>> something similar to the tool that rob shared the link to. Doing it back >>>>> up >>>>> again was also an issue. As torque wrenches of a suitable size were a bit >>>>> pricey for a one off job(hopefully) i did some calculations then using a >>>>> two metre bit of rhs and added sufficient weight to the end of it to >>>>> achieve the correct torque. Holding the engine on the bench while this >>>>> was >>>>> happening was another issue-solved with some helpers and the offer of >>>>> beer. >>>>> If i remember correctly i think the fly wheel bolt may have been 400nm and >>>>> the front hub may have been around the 180 nm (can anyone confirm?) that >>>>> was on my L2000 assuming yours is too. Good luck J >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> *From:* [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] >>>>> *On Behalf Of *Jarek Steliga >>>>> *Sent:* Friday, 16 October 2020 5:12 AM >>>>> *To:* Laurie Hoffman via dog >>>>> *Subject:* [DOG mailing list] Large cogwheel at the back of the >>>>> Limbach 2000 - how to take off >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Hello, >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> To make myself absolutely clear, I am referring to the cogwheel which >>>>> engages with the starter. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> After some tentative attempts I realized that it is not going to be >>>>> easy to loosen the nut/screw holding the cogwheel. I llooked through this >>>>> forum archived posts and found nothing. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Could you please share some ideas on how to go about it? I'm planning >>>>> to weld a socket spanner to a long piece of iron for good leverage, but >>>>> that would deal with only part of the problem. Perhaps the bigger problem >>>>> is how to immobilize the cogwheel. Wedging the teeth with a screw driver >>>>> against some protruding parts around the cogwheel did not work. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Looking forward to your thoughts >>>>> >>>>> Best regards >>>>> >>>>> Jarek Steliga >>>>> >>>>
