I have taken the master cylinder out without taking the aluminium tank out.
If you have a trained octopus it is easy.... otherwise be prepared for lots
of cursing, sore fingers, cuts and bruises.
I suspect the gap in the back of the fibreglass tanks is too small to get
your hands in.
Did you get the small O rings for the park brake lever? These are often
overlooked.
regards
Rob

Rob Thompson
0429 493 828


On Tue, Jan 19, 2021 at 8:38 AM Ian Williams <[email protected]> wrote:

> Hi Kurt
> U have to take the tank out.   Butbe real careful as there is a trick to
> it.  Drain the tank and remove the top panel. Lift the tank so you can undo
> the bottom banjo fitting
> Then lift the tank out by rotating the rear first than when upside down it
> can be completely removed
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 19/01/2021, at 9:18 AM, Kurt Redinbaugh <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Thank you all for your prompt responses and support. The O rings for the
> master cylinder came in the post yesterday. The remaining question I have
> is do I need to remove the fuel tank to access the master cylinder or can
> it be dis-assembled as needed from the top? Seems rather a stupid question
> inasmuch as the resevoir is in the way but then I'm asking the experts!
> When I took the wheel brake calipers apart I noticed to my surprise that
> the wear on the brake pads was minimal so I didn't replace the pads. The O
> rings, however, were gummy and sticky. There was some grit in the space
> behind the pucks but most noteworthy was a brown sediment that was quite
> hard that had filled the gap for the O ring on the pressure side of the
> gap. I had to use a knife edge to scrape this sediment out of the gap.
> For the record I used a motor cycle/ATV lift with additional structure and
> proper padding to lift the landing gear bow from the center. This raised
> both wheels enough that they and the brake calipers could be removed.
> Overnight I put the wheel axles back in and used auto jacks under each
> wheel axle and the center lift for three point support to secure the
> aircraft against forecast winds.
> Best Regards
> Kurt
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ---------
> From: Ian Williams <[email protected]>
> Date: Mon, Jan 4, 2021 at 6:39 PM
> Subject: Re: [DOG mailing list] Brake fluid
> To: <[email protected]>
>
>
> Gidday Kurt,
> I may be able to shed some light there.
> Not sure if yr H36 is ex Thai but military tend to ignore any
> manufacturers type certificate,   Plus the normal brake fluid they use is
> the aircraft stuff.
> So dot4 is of course automotive.
> It does sound as if U will need to replace all the seals.   As Rob said
> the brakes themselves are Cleveland replacement seals should be easy to
> get.   Not sure about the master cyl tho
>
> Best regards
> Ian Williams
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On 5/01/2021, at 2:17 PM, Kurt Redinbaugh <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > Thank You Rob for your prompt response on my brake caliper question.
> > I am a bit confused though...
> > On pp44 of the HOFFMANN AIRCRAFT "instructions for continued
> airworthiness" it emphatically states that DOT 3 brake fluid is used and
> that MIL-5606 is NOT to be used. My brake reservoir had a red tint to it
> when I put S/N 3660 back into service after 12 years as a hangar queen.
> Last week I had a leak that drained the reservoir full of DOT 3. The
> airplane is tied down on the ramp at the Reno-Stead airfield and is
> completely covered. The weather has been freeze-thaw cycles lately. The DOT
> fluid I used was fresh and stored in a factory sealed container. I have
> ordered O ring number 101-02300 from Aircraft Spruce to replace the failed
> seal in the caliper.
> > I have seen in the DOG that MIL-5606 fluid is to be used. Is there an
> explanation for this seeming contradiction?
> > As always thanks for your support
> > Kurt
>
>
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