I do work like that by hand. I tin the pads then tack down the chip. Once all the pins are soldered, using solder wick to remove the extra if any pins are bridged is pretty quick and painless. Doesn't take much practice to get good with it. Slower than paste with a reflow oven for large or medium batches, but for small numbers of boards it makes a lot of sense. Basically zero set up time. On Mar 12, 2015 9:01 AM, "Jerry Biehler" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I think a syringe dispenser with a tiny tip is going to be better than > smearing and hoping. > > I might be able to put you in touch with the guy that hand solders our > prototypes and does rework. I bet he would put that chip on there pretty > cheap. > > -Jerry > > > On Mar 12, 2015, at 8:55 AM, Joshua Noble <[email protected]> > wrote: > > > > > > Hi all, > > > > I'm trying to put together a board that has an NRF905 as its primary > component. It came back from OSHPark in pretty good shape, albeit with a > slightly oddly shaped pads, but making a stencil for it has proved > impossible. I've found places that offer metal QFN32 solder masks but > elsewhere I've read that people have just put a thin layer of paste over > all the pads and relied on the top solder mask of the board to keep pins > from bridging. I don't want to ruin the board and one of my NRF905s without > a seeking some wisdom first. Has anyone successfully done this without a > stencil? Any tips or tricks or words of warning? > > > > I'd send a picture of the pad but I don't have a macro lens for a camera > so it's very difficult to see. Many thanks in advance for any suggestions, > > > > > > -- > > joshua noble > > > > _______________________________________________ > > dorkbotpdx-blabber mailing list > > [email protected] > > http://music.columbia.edu/mailman/listinfo/dorkbotpdx-blabber > _______________________________________________ > dorkbotpdx-blabber mailing list > [email protected] > http://music.columbia.edu/mailman/listinfo/dorkbotpdx-blabber >
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