As we all know this has been a hot topic many times on the list. One of my good friends worked at HP Fullerton cleaning, repairing, and aligning test equipment. The process was, as described prior, blowing out dust, removing whose items that water would damage, using a solution of simple green under pressure washer, scrubbing with brush as needed, then rinsing with distilled water, air hose, and baking at heat under 200 degrees for a week. He said transformers were not a problem for this process.
It would be awesome to find photo's or documentation of this process and placed in our document files. ----- Original Message ----- From: Al Parker [mailto:[email protected]] Sent: Thursday, December 01, 2011 10:55 AM To: Steve Wedge <[email protected]> Cc: [email protected] <[email protected]>; [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Baked Drakes Hi folks, There's been a post on another list in the last cupla days re: a "different" Simple Green, reported to be more user & radio friendly than the regular stuff. The part number for a one gallon container is 13406 and a google search under "Simple Green" 13406 will yield many hits on suppliers. I see that thru Amazon, a gal. can be del'd for less that $30, and that'll keep most of us busy for a cupla yrs. I quote from a satisfied BA'type, R-390A's, user here: -------------------------- "The Extreme Aircraft and Precision cleaner is entirely different. First it is clear. When using it it is very similar to 409 but with some significant advantages. Although the directions give information for diluting, if you wish, I used it without dilution. First of all, it removed dirty film that 409 couldn’t clean. Secondly it is not as allergic if one gets a sniff of it while spraying. It still needs the elbow grease and you may need to do a surface several times before all the grime comes off. I didn’t wear gloves when using it and after rinsing and drying my hands they seemed normal with no dryness." -------------------- I have't tried it yet, and haven't used Simple Green, but have used 409 and Srubbing Bubbles sparingly. Scrub B's has been reported by a chemist-type to be non-ionic and safe. Not sure abt 409. I do use plain water and hand dishwashing liquid soap mostly, applied carefully with a paint brush, and reserve the rest for bad problems. Rinse anything/everything well with distilled water. 73, Al, W8UT www.boatanchors.org www.hammarlund.info "There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats" Ratty, to Mole On 12/1/2011 12:42 PM, Steve Wedge wrote: > I've been swearing by Simple Green. The Scrubbing Bubbles might be a winner, > as it has an alcohol base - which can dissolve some things that water can't. > > BTW, for the PTO I steer clear of washing (except for the vernier) and clean > out the bearing races and worm-screw with IPA and Q-tips, followed by a > re-lube of the ball bearings with 3-in-1 oil and the worm and concentric > shaft with Rem Oil. > > Use only mild soap on the frequency vernier! You should rinse the vernier it > with distilled water when done and pat dry with a paper towel. For grungy > C-Line and SPR-4 dual verniers, I suspect you'll have to disassemble them > from the shaft if they're dirty to prevent gunk from getting between the two > discs. > > And, of course, never grease any Nylon gears! > > 73, > > Steve, W1ES/4 _______________________________________________ Drakelist mailing list [email protected] http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist _______________________________________________ Drakelist mailing list [email protected] http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
