ALL of the screws for the card cage cover need to be there, and snug. Don't
overtighten, they will strip the chassis.
The +10V and the frequency alignments are the most critical. You probably won't
need to touch the RF/IF cans or anything underneath the DR-7 except maybe the
carrier balance. The RIT center pot should be accessible from the bottom
through a hole in the parent board.
Replace the filter capacitor on the DC-DC converter ("power supply") board.
Don't ask why, just do it. It is worthwhile to replace the fixed passband pots
and the +10 pot with 10-turn trimpots as long as you are at it. Unless you have
doubts about the calibration, I wouldn't touch the wattmeter and SWR balance
adjustments. Judgement call...
AGC alignment should go by the book. If you will be doing CW, give Floyd's
article a read. It's spot on:
http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/TR7_Key_Clicks.pdf
There are some quick and dirty tech notes from Drake's service department here:
http://www.zerobeat.net/drakelist/tr7bookalign.html
If you have any questions, ask.
73
-Jim
NU0C
On Mon, 3 Mar 2014 19:36:27 -0800 (PST), Mark Nace wrote:
>I bought my "new" TR7 28 years ago (as my first rig ever) and am about to do
>do my first alignment check. I have re-seated the boards once, and that cured
>most of the ills. I have a late-model TR7, along with the maint manual. If I
>do it "by the book", is there anything I should watch out for ??
Mark
N5KAE
--
The universe we're in will reach absolute zero in three hours. Safe is
relative. - Idris, "The Doctor's Wife"
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