While I'm at it, here are a couple of tricks used by aviation mechanics. Using a good screwdriver tip, dip it spark plug cleaner abrasive, then try it on the screwhead.
OK, so you don't keep a stock of spark plug cleaner abrasive, another trick is to use a very small amount of crazy glue on the screwdriver tip and cement the tip to the screw. One that works for me with small screws, but it has a higher risk of damaging something if it slips off. And wear eye protection, most of the times my flush cutters failed they sent the broken blade flying as a projectile. I put one blade of the flush cutter in the centre of the screw and grip the outside edge of the screw with the other blade and getting started backing out. Another risky approach, again eye protection is recommended, if you have a small enough chisel, then with light taps from a light ball peen hammer drive the chisel into one edge of the screw counter clockwise enough to loosen it. Lastly, and only if you have good eyes, an excellent sense of having the drill bit square to the screw, and a steady hand, you could drill out the centre of the screw and remove the remains. In cases where the screw bottomed out onto something solid and nothing else worked, this usually does. There is very very high risk of drilling off square though and damaging the original threads. Ron VE8RT On Sun, 2011-11-13 at 21:15 -0500, Don Wilhelm wrote: > I would like to add 2 things. First, a worn screwdriver tip can strip > out the screwhead - if there is any doubt and the corners of the tip > look at all shiny, buy a new one - of course, after the screwhead is > stripped, it is like closing the barn door after the horse got out. I > replace the #1 phillips screwdriver at my workbench every 3 or 4 > months. Once the edges get rounded, there is danger of stripping out > the screwhead. When buying a new screwdriver, get a good one, bargain > tools will cause you headaches in the long run. > > Secondly, this is a potential problem with steel screws binding in > aluminum - it is also temperature dependent - aluminum and steel do not > expand at the same rate. A tiny drop of oil on the screw threads when > inserting the screw will prevent future occurrences, and often a drop of > oil around the screw head and a half hour of patience while it seeps in > will allow the screw to be removed. > > That is just my experience of working with screws accumulated over the > past 50 years. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > On 11/13/2011 5:06 PM, DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote: > > Besides what Bill has contributed to your issue, I had to leave the 2D > > in place and manage to remove all the other screws so that the block > > came off with the side panel. I then used a traditional pliers to > > undo the block. So like I said, no way I made it that tight > > originally. Maybe it's an Elecraft feature...self-tightening screws? > > LOL > > > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[email protected] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[email protected] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
